Wine lovers have been enjoying California zinfandel for decades. This grape variety had quite a following well before the chardonnay and cabernet booms really mushroomed.

We’ve been told that European immigrants brought the zinfandel grape to the United States to make homemade wines for the family dinner table. Their choice of zinfandel says something about this varietal’s affinity for food and its potential for deliciousness.

Farming zinfandel is no easy task because it ripens unevenly, making the decision of when to pick it a challenge.

Here are four examples of this varietal worth checking out. They hail from four different growing regions in California.

» 2010 Ancient Peaks Zinfandel "Paso Robles" (about $18 a bottle): The Ancient Peaks estate vineyard lies in the southernmost reach of the Paso Robles. At 1,000 feet in elevation, it is one of the coolest pockets of the appellation, largely influenced by ocean breezes.

Upon visiting this vineyard recently, I was fascinated by its five distinct soils (the most compelling comprising fossilized oyster shells). I also was touched by the passion and dedication of the three families that own and farm this remote, unique site.

The resulting wine has lots of flavor, texture and wonderful balance. It’s no wonder this wine is perennially rated a "best buy" by major wine media.

» 2010 Peltier Station Zinfandel (about $14): Here is an old-vine zinfandel from Lodi, Calif.

I keep checking on the winemaking scene in the area because it is home to remarkable old-vine plantings still in production.

The Schatz family of Peltier Station has been farming its estate vineyards for three or four generations. Rather than selling fruit to larger wineries, they produce and bottle their own wines.

This offering is tasty, masculine and rustic, with good flow on the palate and nice balance. It certainly overdelivers for the dollar.

» 2009 Scherrer Zinfandel "Old & Mature Vines" (about $30): This small "one-man show" has been producing some of my favorite zinfandel for many years. The grapes come from Fred Scherrer’s father’s vineyard in Alexander Valley. "Old" vines were planted in 1912 and "mature" vines in the 1970s through 1982.

The best way to describe this wine is to say it’s an old-vine zin handcrafted by a pinot noir master. This means it has fabulous texture, suave-ability and elegance. And you will be amazed at how this wine gets better with age.

» 2010 Robert Biale Zinfandel "Black Chicken" (about $30): Those looking for a fuller-flavored zin, with lots of ripe fruit and old-vine character, will find fulfillment here. Having recently visited this winery and its vineyards as the harvest fast approached, I was amazed at how well managed the farm and vines were.

Also notable were the gentle winemaking techniques and the use of Burgundian oak barrels, which tame the grapes without compromising vinosity, virility or heartiness. It’s no wonder Robert Biale is considered one of the standout producers of zin today.

Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.