Spinach is the most incredible shrinking vegetable around. Buy a pound or two, steam it until it wilts, drain, cool and squeeze it down to just a handful of green — it shrinks by 90 percent when it is cooked.

Of course, you could eat spinach raw in a salad, an abundance of green leaves is just an ounce or two. But the delicious flavor of spinach really comes through when it’s cooked.

Fresh, vibrant dark green leaves should be crisp and tender, especially baby spinach leaves, normally used in salads. There should be no yellowing or a musty odor when you open a bag of spinach. Eat soon after buying it for optimum nutrient value.

Like all green vegetables, it’s best to steam spinach rather than cook it in water (all that green water you pour down the drain means nutrients are going down, too). In fact, you can rinse spinach leaves and wilt them in a hot pan without any additional water. Or better yet, stir fry quickly in a little oil over high heat — the little bit of fat will help your body absorb the nutrients in the plant.

Spinach is versatile. Eat it raw in salad; use it in dips, omelets and quiches; toss a handful on top of saimin or a pizza; sauté it with minced garlic or oyster sauce; wilt it, squeeze it and add cream and a little nutmeg; add it to pasta dishes for a good nutritional boost.

Look for island-grown spinach in markets and farmers markets.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.