Through her cuisine, executive chef Lucia Cho is attempting to change the Korean sensibility about dining out.
Ever since the Korean War, which left the country impoverished, most Koreans have made it a practice to cook and eat meals at home, she says. Their food is basic and affordable, reflecting a value that equates humility with simple fare.
The rare exception is a special occasion like a wedding, when people dine on what Cho refers to as "palace food," traditional and elaborate cuisine.
"Palace food is beautiful, but think of a traditional costume. It’s not wearable everyday. It’s not for modern times. It’s not practical. It’s good once in a while to celebrate," she said by phone from Korea.
Distinct from these two extremes is Bicena, the fine-dining restaurant Cho, 32, opened nearly a year ago in Seoul. She is backed by the Kwangjuyo Group, her family’s company that also produces customized ceramic dinnerware for U.S. and Korea restaurants. Bicena’s food, dishware and interior design provide a complete dining experience, she said.
Cho will be in town for next week’s Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival as part of the "Under the Modern Moon: Morimoto & Friends" event Sept. 5. She will introduce her food to an international audience as she joins 14 other chefs from around the globe.
Cho is attempting to deliver familiar foods inspired by fresh, local ingredients, similar to what Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs did a couple of decades ago. Bicena focuses on seasonal menus that elevate home-style dishes and modernize palace food.
"Regional flavors are distinct. Foods from the south have deep flavors and heavier sauces, while the north has brighter, lighter foods. So we bring out different menus based on these traditional and homey foods. We offer new presentations. But we keep the integrity of the flavors and the ingredients," Cho said.
"Our food is not fusion. I hope we can approach our cuisine in a more honest way than having chefs trained in an institution without having background in Korean food. A European approach with Korean flavors would just confuse people. Our food is nouveau Korean cuisine."
On Bicena’s extensive summer menu is kong guk su, noodle in chilled soybean consomme based on a home-style classic. It uses freshly pressed soy milk from special soybeans grown in eastern Korea, plus grated, filtered pine nuts. Chilled noodles, served with chicken, cucumber and sprouts, are dipped in the consomme.
"When people eat the chilled noodles, they say it brings back memories of the version their grandma made for them," Cho said.
Jang eo jjim, another summer dish, is an eel-and-vegetable roll based on a palace dish. The eel is charcoal grilled and placed on a black sesame buckwheat pancake, then layered with kochujang-
marinated burdock root and sesame leaves pickled in homemade soy sauce. It’s served with pickled ginger and scallions.
Cho says the restaurant’s ever-changing menu is the key to keeping her chefs’ creative juices flowing.
"When you change the menu seasonally, using the freshest ingredients, it forces chefs to think creatively. You’ve got to think about how to evolve a dish into modern times — dishes from home, from palace food, from the kind of food you eat with friends. This is what Korean diners want right now," she said.
Influencing the public mindset about dining out is a gradual process, but one Cho believes Korean people are ready to embrace.
"Korean people have amazing pride in their culture, and I’m trying to elevate food as culture and entertainment, something they can enjoy and feel satisfied eating. I want to change ideas so that eating home-style food in an upscale restaurant is fashionable and worth spending money on," she said.
"I’ve targeted Bicena to up-and-coming foodies. Change can make people nervous, but change is good."
SCHEDULE OF EVENTS
At the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival next week, Bicena executive chef Lucia Cho will feature braised mok sal, or black pork shoulder, at "Under the Modern Moon: Morimoto & Friends" on Sept. 5. She created the dish especially for the event.
Preparation involves braising the pork for hours in kochujang sauce with beef consomme and fragrant ingredients such as ginseng and dates, until it is tender enough to fall apart.
Cho put the dish on Bicena’s summer menu and says it has been popular.
"I wanted to elaborate on the love for pork in Hawaii. I remember when I was a child going to the Polynesian Cultural Center and was astonished by the pig roast," she said. "I also wanted to show off Korean braising flavors. Koreans have amazing fermented ‘jang’ (pepper or soybean paste), which have layers of deep flavors.
"In the end, I wanted this dish to stay in Hawaii after we leave. This is a dish that uses a process we are all familiar with — braising — but delivers a strong statement on Korean flavor and a memory of us, Bicena."
For tickets to an event, visit www.hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com.
SUNDAY
>> "Malama Maui" (6 to 9:30 p.m., Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa, $250): Maui-grown products prepared by Bev Gannon, Gregory P. Grohowski, Hiroyuki Sakai, Sheldon Simeon, Marcel Vigneron and Rick Tramonto.
SEPT. 5
>> "Kamehameha Schools Presents Fish and Poi: Lunch at the Lo’i" (8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Papahana Kuaola and Paepae o He’eia, $125): Visit Heeia’s ancient fishpond or work the loi and learn about the traditional approach to stewardship of the land, and taste other culinary treats from Hawaii. Lunch provided.
>> "Hawaiian Airlines Presents Under the Modern Moon: Morimoto & Friends" (6 to 9 p.m., The Modern Honolulu, $200, $300 VIP): Enjoy the fare of 15 chefs from Asia and the Pacific: Masaharu Morimoto, Lucia Cho, Marco Anzani, Floyd Cardoz, Stephen Durfee, Stanton Ho, Amber Lin, Anita Lo, Bryant Ng, Charles Phan, Yuji Wakiya, Eric Ziebold and Hawaii’s Chai Chaowasareee, Scott Toner and Roger Meier.
SEPT. 6
>> "Rice Plus with Chris Cosentino and Sang Yoon" (10 a.m. to noon, Hawai’i Convention Center, Kauai room 311, $95): Cosentino of Incanto in San Francisco joins Yoon of Lukshon (Los Angeles) to create rice dishes from the Italian (Cosentino) and Korean-Russian (Yoon) perspectives. Master sommelier Roberto Viernes will pair the dishes with wine and sake.
>> "Sweet Endings, Sweet Wine with Michelle Karr-Ueoka and Christina Tosi" (1 to 3 p.m., Hawai’i Convention Center, Kauai room 311, $95): Pastry chefs Karr-Ueoka of Honolulu and Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar in New York will feature local chocolate and tropical fruits in innovative ways; Alan Wong’s sommelier Mark Shishido will offer pairings.
>> SOLD OUT: "Third Annual Halekulani Master Chefs Gala Series: Around the World with Seven Chefs" (6 to 10 p.m., Halekulani, $1,000): Renowned chefs and sommeliers offer their talents for this premier seven-course meal. The chef lineup: Grant Achatz, Alinea Restaurant; Dominique Crenn, Atelier Crenn; Vikram Garg, Halekulani; Hubert Keller, Fleur de Lys; Nobu Matsuhisa, Nobu Waikiki; Tetsuya Wakuda; and Tosi, Momofuku Milk Bar.
>> "AFTER PARTY" (10 p.m. to 2 a.m., Japengo and SWIM, Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa, $75): Back by popular demand, chef Keller takes off his toque and assumes DJ honors as guests graze on bites by chefs Hiroshi Fukui, Andrew Le, Jon Matsubara, Robert McGee and Lee Anne Wong, with drink concoctions by Francesco Lafranconi.
SEPT. 7
>> "Pinot Noir Study: As Taught by Four of California’s Most Celebrated Producers" (9:30 to 10:30 a.m., Halekulani, $200): Thomas Brown, Steve Clifton, Jim Clendenen and Paul Lato offer their insights. Master sommeliers Richard Betts, Joseph Spellman and Roberto Viernes lead a panel discussion.
>> "My Italian Way with Celestino Drago and Jonathan Waxman" (10 a.m. to noon, Hawai’i Convention Center, Kaua’i room 311, $95): The star chefs focus on fresh, high-quality ingredients cooked respectfully. Wine pairings included.
>> "Harlan Estate: California’s ‘First Growth,’ from the Hills of Oakville" (11 a.m. to noon, Halekulani, $300): Harlan Estate director Don Weaver joins Betts, Spellman and Viernes in leading guests through a vertical tasting of Harlan’s renowned red wine.
>> "Exploring Vodka & Vodka-Based Cocktails" (11:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Hau Terrace, Halekulani, $100): Tony Abou-Ganim, mixologist at The Modern and author of "Vodka Distilled," discusses America’s most consumed spirit. Attendees will receive a copy of "Vodka Distilled."
>> "My Favorite Wine Producers in the World" (12:30 to 1:30 p.m., Halekulani, $150): Betts, Spellman and Viernes share a selection of their favorite wines.
>> "Fire It Up with Chilis with Dean Fearing, Charles Phan and Ming Tsai" (1 to 3 p.m., Hawai’i Convention Center, Kaua’i Room 311, $95): The trio cook with fresh, dried, powdered, chopped, pureed and whole chilies. Plus, beer pairings by brewmaster George Reisch.
>> "Taste Our Love for the Land" (6 to 9 p.m., Hawai’i Convention Center, rooftop garden, $200, $500 VIP): A showcase of Hawaii products prepared by: Ippy Aiona, Keoni Chang, Cosentino, Mark Freischmidt, Chris Kajioka, Ed Kenney, Mourad Lahlou, Grant MacPherson, Matsubara, Gary Matsumoto, George Mavrothalassitis, Russell Moore, Mark Noguchi, Simeon, Art Smith, Hiro Sone, Waxman, Yoon and Toshihiko Yoroizuka.
SEPT. 8
>> "Girls Got Game +1" (11 a.m. to 1 p.m., SHOR at Hyatt Regency Waikiki, $125): Sunday brunch prepared by all-female chefs and farmers, plus executive chef Sven Ullrich of Hyatt Regency Waikiki. Chandra Lucariello offers cocktail pairings. Chefs lineup: Crenn, Harumi Kurihara, Jacqueline Lau, Amber Lin, Lo and Ullrich. Farmer lineup: Lesley Hill, Wailea Agricultural Group; Shin Ho, Ho Farms; Kylie Matsuda-Lum, Kahuku Farms; Amy Shinsato, Shinsato Farms; Sabrina St. Martin and Monique van der Stroom, Naked Cow Dairy; Janice Stanga, Hamakua Heritage Farm; and Candy Suiso, Makaha Mangoes
>> "Savory Ever After" (6 to 9 p.m., Ko Olina Resort featuring Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa and JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa, $200, $500 VIP): Food by: Kevin Chong, Josiah Citrin, Drago, Fearing, Michael Ginor, Karr-Ueoka, Jason Kina, Raphael Lunetta, Elizabeth McDonald, Richard Rosendale, Nancy Silverton, Andrew Sutton, Tsai and Ricardo Zarate.
SEPT. 9
>> "Dream Bigger Dreams" (11 a.m. to 1 p.m., Kapiolani Community College, Ohia 118, $10, free to students): Richard Rosendale, executive chef of Rosendale Group and 2013 Bocuse d’Or competitor, and Durfee, Culinary Institute of America instructor and 2013 Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie competitor, share tips on success in culinary competition.
