KJ’s Local Grindz in Kaneohe is famous for its crispy, savory fried chicken and for its furikake chicken — and the fowl fame is both a blessing and a burden.

The business marked its 14th anniversary Sept. 13 amid a new set of economic realities.

"Chicken prices have been going up," said owner Lynell Itomura.

The word "up" hardly seems sufficient. Since the beginning of this year, her chicken bill has climbed $3,000 per month to $19,200. "It’s sky-high," she said.

Distributors have told her there is a big export market for U.S. chicken thighs and that Japan, Korea and Russia, willing to pay higher prices, are getting an increasing chunk of American chicken parts.

Distributors contacted for this column did not return calls.

"It’s coming to the point where I say, ‘Forget the chicken,’" but her son gently admonished her that customers flock to the restaurant primarily for her chicken. The fried chicken and furikake chicken are the restaurant’s two top sellers, followed by roast pork, pork adobo and grilled pork chops with gravy.

She had been selling fried chicken thighs for $1 apiece, but in May reluctantly raised the per-piece price to $1.25, after reviewing prices charged by KFC and Zippy’s. "I raised it because I wasn’t making any money," she said. "I tried to keep it down because it’s a local place."

Still, she feared that the 25-cent price increase might scare customers away. It didn’t happen. In fact, she said, customer traffic has increased.

KJ’s can cook 140 pieces of fried chicken in one batch, and "divided by six, that’s not many plates," Itomura said. "I do pans, too, so that’s why we run out." People who need catering-pan-fuls should absolutely call ahead, she said.

"Every other person (orders) furikake," she said. When people take pans of it to parties, "it’s like the first thing gone," customers have told her. She created the recipe through much experimentation.

KJ’s also used to sell mochiko chicken.

"It was a crazy seller," but the mochiko flour that remained in the oil would burn and cause other items fried in the oil to taste burned.

That’s another thing — oil that used to cost $8 for a 5-gallon container now costs $30 — and she uses five containers a day. Dropping the mochiko chicken seemed the best solution to preserve the other top-selling dishes’ flavor.

The restaurant fires up all three commercial deep-fryers only on Saturdays, not just because of cooking oil expense, but "because the gas is horrendous. Utilities are all taking from me. The fuel adjustment is nearly half the bill," Itomura said.

Still, Itomura is happy to be running a popular eatery.

"I’m just grateful as long as I meet my bills, pay all my employees and have a comfortable living. I am so blessed because I don’t have to go hungry like so many people do," she said.

KJ’s portions are large enough that many customers share plates, including mothers with young children. "I try to keep prices down and give big portions to keep people happy," though miniplates also are available.

The recipe for the fried chicken and the trick to its crispiness (which she didn’t divulge) actually came from a customer (whose name remains confidential), but Itomura says even if she were to give out the recipe, it is unlikely people could replicate it at home. "A commercial fryer makes a big difference," she said. Even she tried to make it at home, and it wasn’t the same.

Plates come with the typical protein and rice, but the mac salad at KJ’s is controversial. It is her mother’s recipe, made with spaghetti noodles — instead of elbow macaroni or the shorter, tubular ditalini — and tuna. "Some people are so appalled by it," she said. Those people can choose another side, such as corn or a tossed salad. "I serve romaine (lettuce). It has 80 nutrients," versus the less nutritious iceberg variety. There again, romaine is more expensive than iceberg, "but I do that because it helps the people."

Itomura opened KJ’s after a painful divorce. A friend urged her to pursue her dream of opening a restaurant, assuring her that she did not want to be on her deathbed regretting not having done it.

Itomura’s earliest days were spent in Uptown Sundries, owned by her grandmother Rose Fujii, who raised her, she said. "It was located where Okuhara Fishcake is, next to the fire station in Palama." The sundry store included a fountain and lunch counter, "and she did shave ice, too. … My playpen was there."

Itomura named it KJ’s for her daughter Krissy and son Jason Wannomae. Krissy’s "Local Grindz" suggestion was added, and the eatery opened in 1997.

Itomura had never run a restaurant and lost $46,000 in the first year of KJ’s existence. The next year she narrowed her loss to $15,000, but, with the restaurant on the market, along came Lina Girl and "Bruddah" Sam Langi. The married hosts of "Local Kine Grindz" on OC16 featured KJ’s on the cable show, "and it was just heavenly after that," Itomura said "It was good. We had a line through the door."

KJ’s was again featured on "Local Kine Grindz" anniversary shows, by Shawn Ching on KITV and by Lyle Galdeira and Russell Yamanoha on KHNL.

Would she ever consider expanding?

"Absolutely not," Itomura said. "I never looked at expanding, because one headache is enough — you be grateful for what you have."