Earlier this summer, I was observing the goings-on at Uncle Clay’s House of Pure Aloha as the finishing touches were being built into its Aina Haina home. I figured it would be just one of many stops on the warm-weather shave ice circuit.
But after one visit, I decided it wouldn’t be fair to other purveyors of the icy treat — whether serving local-flavor syrups or Asian brown-sugar syrup — to lump them in with HOPA, which is revolutionary in its approach to a treat we’ve taken for granted for decades. After all, what more could be done with the one-two-three punch of ice, sugar water and equally sweet toppings?
Other places may offer more choices in toppings and syrups, but HOPA has introduced a lineup of fresh-made fruit and vegetable syrups that bring a healthful aspect to what once was a flood of empty calories.
It’s all part of Uncle Clay’s mission of aloha, doing good for body, mind and planet.
That’s no empty promise. "Uncle" Clay Chang and his nephew Bronson Chang are so intent on this goal, of "a better world filled with more love, happiness, peace and prosperity for everyone," that their website, houseofpurealoha.com, talks all about the mission, with just one small banner mentioning shave ice. A new website is in the works.
UNCLE CLAY’S HOUSE OF PURE ALOHA
820 W. Hind Drive » 373-5111
Hours: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays and 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Fridays to Sundays
Cost: About $5 per person
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Bringing local farms into the picture, about 30 percent of the produce that goes into HOPA’s sauces comes from Otsuji Farm, while chocolate is from Waialua Estates.
I can hear the collective groans of all those who like their shave ice as is, in all its artificially flavored, artificially colored glory, but hear me out. The syrups of real fruit are just as habit-forming, without the burden of guilt. It helps that they’re poured over fluffy ice that takes on a creamy dimension when topped with HOPA’s milky Dream sauce or chocolate sauce.
Uncle Clay said it took six months to develop the flavors, 13 to date, with some stronger than others. Just imagine the intensity in processed form. Here, the acai is very faint and benefits from a douse of the dream or chocolate sauces. Other flavors include North Shore coffee, Kona coffee, coconut, li hing and papaya.
Green juicing is nothing new on the smoothie front, but HOPA is the first to bring the "salad" to shave ice. Kale and spinach are sweetened with green apples in this concoction, which is quite good if you’re open to the idea of vegetables as dessert.
Enhance any of these with toppings of Tahitian vanilla ice cream, azuki beans, granola, fresh fruit or, for those who like cute, heart-shaped mochi. These are served in keiki ($3), original ($4) and large ($5) sizes. The bowls are the same size. The difference comes in the height of the ice, with the large amounting to double the height of the keiki.
BEYOND FOOD for your tummy, there is food for thought in the Changs’ back story. Those who live in the vicinity are acquainted with Uncle Clay’s former after-school and weekend spot, Doe Fang, purveyor of crack seed and frozen drinks. Uncle Clay’s a chatty guy, so I picked up his whole history in about 45 minutes while just sitting there and enjoying my shave ice.
It’s not the place for those who might prefer to retreat to a corner and sit in icy silence. I’d been warned that he chats up every customer, to the point of hand-feeding the willing.
I was pretty sure I could fend him off if that was the case because I’m a private person who doesn’t divulge much to strangers. Even so, I wasn’t prepared for immediate interrogation, and they’re so disarmingly nice, they’re easy to talk to. It began harmlessly enough, with Bronson asking, "How did you hear about us?"
"The buzz," I said, as we talked about social media’s role in introducing small businesses.
Then, it was Uncle Clay’s turn, and we were just talking until he blurted out a blunt, "What’s your name?"
"Ah, ah …" I gave a fake one, but every time he called me by that name, I felt bad that I had lied to Uncle Clay. It’s his house, so naturally, he wants to know more about the people in it and what makes them tick. He’s just one of those people, who, after talking a bit, makes you feel like you’ve know them forever.
Uncle Clay said he’d wanted to own Doe Fang since he was a boy who enjoyed going there. The business changed hands twice before he became its proud owner. Even so, over time it struggled due to rising costs.
At the same time, Bronson was a serial entrepreneur, whose first business was raising guppies for pet shops when he was in middle school, followed by an online jewelry business.
Later, in business school at the University of Southern California, he began formulating a philosophy about social entrepreneurship and vowed that any of his ventures would have to benefit the public good. He began to see his uncle’s business, with more focus, as a vehicle to promote a universal message of aloha.
"As I got older, I saw that it wasn’t just about Icees. At the heart of what he was doing was pure aloha," Bronson said. "There were times I had to politely excuse myself. Otherwise, I’d be there talking for one hour, but he’s so sincere and genuine, and I’d think, ‘That’s Uncle, he loves to talk story.’ "
Right now, HOPA is an experiment in sustainability, but the Changs’ aim is to grow and move into communities hungry for their healthful shave ice and social values, whether here, nationally or internationally.
"We want to continue to make farmer partnerships, explore more culinary creativity and innovate on shave ice," Bronson said.
As part of that mission, HOPA is participating in this month’s Kanu Hawaii "Eat Local Challenge," which calls on diners to eat locally grown food to support a sustainable and secure food system in Hawaii. Offered for the challenge this month is a special of sweet potato shave ice.
HEALTHY SUNDAES
Another healthy alternative to traditional shave ice is being served up at The Pacific Place Tea Garden Café on the third level of Ala Moana Center.
Its shave ice sundaes ($6.25) are served parfait-style so they melt neat and clean into their cups.
Owner Lynette Jee replaces the usual colored syrups with antioxidant-rich teas, fruit nectars, coffee, fresh fruits and the Tea Garden’s reduced-sugar gelatos.
My favorites are the matcha green tea with its matcha gelato, berries, azuki beans and condensed milk drizzle, and Hawaiian pineapple made with pineapple juice, pina colada gelato, fresh pineapple chunks and condensed milk drizzle.
Other flavors are Thai Herbal Tea, Thai coffee and Kona coffee mocha.
The café is open 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays, and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays. Call 944-2004.
Pacific Place Tea Garden Café will be participating in Thursday’s Fashion’s Night Out events. Enjoy samplings and receive a pineapple-shaped tea strainer with a purchase of $25 or more in retail products.
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.