Shiso’s vibrant flavor plays crucial role in variety of dishes

It’s hard to believe that mint and basil are related to shiso, the jagged leaf herb often served with sushi and sashimi. But they are distantly related and shiso’s flavor and aroma are reminiscent of its cousins.

Shiso is also known as perilla, beefsteak or Japanese basil. The leaves are dark and flat with saw-tooth edges. There’s a red variety, too, less aromatic but prized for its intense magenta coloring used to make pickled vegetables such as umeboshi.

Look for fresh, bright green shiso at farmers’ markets, its leaves stacked on each other. Store them wrapped in a paper towel and in a plastic bag; they will last several days but should be used quickly for optimum flavor.

Shiso can be used as an herb in salads; it often garnishes a sashimi platter or is used in a rolled sushi. Tempura-fried shiso leaves are quite a treat.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.