In the kitchen at Alan Wong’s King Street restaurant, young hopeful Sonny Longboy Acosta Jr. has been working on a recipe for success.
Acosta, 25, a "Cook III" — "That means he can work almost any position in the kitchen," says Wong — is one of four finalists in the first Bocuse d’Or USA Commis Competition, which focuses on promising young American chefs.
The competition will be held Jan. 28 at the Culinary Institute of America in New York.
Bocuse d’Or USA is part of Bocuse d’Or, a nonprofit international culinary organization started in 1987 that is dedicated to "culinary excellence." Its namesake is chef Paul Bocuse, legendary for his modern French cuisine and his restaurant’s rarefied Michelin three-star rating. Bocuse d’Or holds a biennial competition involving representatives from 24 countries for the world title of top chef. The commis event is a junior competition for upcoming talent.
Acosta, who hails from Kalihi and earned an associate’s degree in culinary arts from Kapiolani Community College, is in heady company. His competitors hail from such restaurants as Providence in Los Angeles, Café Boulud in New York and Gramercy Tavern in New York.
The commis finalists must prepare their interpretation of the classic Bocuse dish, Poulet au Vinaigre, or chicken in vinegar sauce. First-place prize is a three-month apprenticeship at a Michelin three-star restaurant in France. Among judges is chef Grant Achatz of Chicago’s Alinea and Next restaurants.
"I’m nervous but it’s really exciting," says Acosta, who trains each morning under the guidance of Wong. "Chef has been mentoring me for two months, and I’ve been practicing techniques. I come in the morning to work on the dish, then the chef comes in and tastes it."
"Sonny’s training is like that of a professional athlete. He sacrifices his personal time," Wong says. "He comes in early and practices, then goes on to do his shift. At home he reads books I’ve assigned and he studies. Then he repeats it all the next day."
Wong says that because Acosta is cooking classic French, he has had him read up on great French chefs such as Auguste Escoffier, Alain Senderens and, of course, Bocuse.
"You’ve got to connect to the past before you can focus on the future. You’ve gotta have good roots in cooking," he says. "So no matter what happens to Sonny, he’s learned a whole lot."
Wong is on the culinary council of Bocuse d’Or USA and thought of Acosta when asked whether he had someone to nominate for the contest.
"Whenever Sonny cooks, it tastes good," he says in explaining his nomination.
Acosta already has a track record as a serious competitor. He won three gold medals in the Hawaii State Culinary Expo in 2005, 2006 and 2008. In 2006 and 2007 he won second-place honors in the Tom and Warren Matsuda Scholarship competition.
He also competed in the National Chaine de Rotisseurs Jeunes Commis Competition in 2007 and 2008 and was part of the American Culinary Foundation Junior Competition teams in 2006 and 2008, when he was team captain.
Wong says success in this caliber of competition could pave a path of opportunity for Acosta.
"Working in a three-Michelin-star restaurant can change his life overnight," he says.
"If Sonny does well, not only does he represent us, but Hawaii. Hawaii’s not really publicized — it’s way out in the Pacific Ocean. Likewise, Bocuse d’Or is not known here. So Sonny might inspire local kids to enter the next time around."
As for Acosta, all the study and preparation has broadened his perspective.
"I’ve learned a lot," he says. "I’ve concentrated on my career more than ever, and it’s opened my eyes."