Art historians have been theorizing about the effects of World War II on the Japanese psyche ever since the atomic bombs were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
It appears to have led to two opposing world views, one dark and fatalistic, as seen in the emergence of the dance of darkness, Butoh; fashion designers who specialize in deconstruction and somber palettes of blacks and grays; and clothing that doubles as survival gear, transforming into tents or sleeping bags.
At the other extreme is the kawaii phenomenon, with its cute, colorful imagery designed to lift spirits and offer hope to people in bleak times.
Count Izumi Ogino in the latter camp. The founder and designer for Anteprima is best known for her bags knit from translucent and iridescent wire cord in colors and shapes that aim to delight.
Ogino was in town last week to mark the fifth anniversary of Anteprima/Wirebags in Hawaii and introduce some of her latest designs, as well as a collaborative exhibit with Francfranc, a Japanese interiors brand. The exhibit at her Royal Hawaiian Center boutique through January features lamps and pillows made from Anteprima’s signature wire material, including wall sconces in the shape of deer heads dressed with pearls, crystals or floral garlands.
She also showed her new Dragon Kitty bag ($1,058), a dragon-tailed version of Hello Kitty done up in black wire for the Year of the Dragon. Red and gold versions are on the way for the Lunar New Year.
Although basic square wirebags comprise 70 percent of sales, Ogino works hard at coming up with novelty creations because "without those things, the shop would be very flat," she said.
Also coming next summer, in celebration of the Olympics, will be sporty bags in the shape of soccer balls, boxing gloves and pingpong paddles.
Another collaboration handbag, a pig based on a piggy bank by Francfranc, was a hit at November’s Venice Biennale, where Ogino said she found herself swarmed by photographers while carrying the bag.
"I was surprised," she said, explaining that the Italians are more likely to favor serious rather than whimsical fashion. But she said she believes it’s a sign of the times that everyone is looking for more joy in the world.
Ogino said she founded her brand on the idea that there are enough serious handbags. "I always want people to feel happy and have more fun," she said.
The bags are the result of playing with materials and knitting, and she fixated on the sparkly wire material because of the way it reflects light. One of the reasons she knew Hawaii would be the perfect place for her boutique is because of the sunlight that brings her works to life.
Ogino grew up in Japan but her company is based in Milan, where she took a job in the fashion industry 30 years ago after studying art philosophy in Japan.
After spending 10 years on the distribution and business end of fashion, she decided, "I’d like to make something," and struck out on her own.
Many times later, she said she asked herself why she chose to make her life more difficult. Not having a design background made her feel insecure, but she said, "That became my power, my energy."
She simply worked harder than everyone else, and to deal with suppliers and business people around the world, she learned to speak Cantonese and English, in addition to Japanese and Italian. And it paid off. In 2013, she will celebrate Anteprima’s 20th anniversary.
