One of my students asked me recently about the very best thing I had ever eaten. I told him I’d have to think about it, but I already know that my list is more like a Top 10 than a one-and-only.
I wasn’t always obsessed with cooking and eating good food. I remember many dinners of plain chicken breast and soggy vegetables, and not thinking much about how to improve them. As a youth, I rejected some of the delicious food my mother made because I was not an adventurous child. Still, I have a few clear memories of great meals.
One night, for instance, I babysat for a group of church moms, taking charge of 10 or so energetic toddlers. The night seemed to drag on forever. My mother was in the kitchen, and she thoughtfully slid me a plate of dinner. I was hungry, so I put on a movie for the tots and ate.
Part of dinner was a bowl of orange soup. Mind you, I was a typical kid and suspicious of all vegetables, especially ones that could be made into a dessert. But once I got started I spooned that soup into my mouth so quickly I could barely breathe between bites.
The heat left a savory taste in the back of my throat that was pure pleasure. I could not imagine a more comforting meal.
The stress of the evening vanished. It was one of the first experiences that had me considering the power of food.
When I asked my mom about the ingredients, she shrugged and said, "It’s just pumpkin soup."
Since then, fall has brought a huge pumpkin craving that I attribute to that soup.
I make pumpkin desserts and pumpkin chili and pumpkin waffles. I’ll use canned for most things, but I love kabocha for savory dishes, especially because it’s so easy to find in Hawaii.
Kabocha is best about two months after harvest, having had time to sit around and get tastier, much like fine wine or complex cheese. Late summer and early fall are the best times for this squash. Pick one heavy for its size and free from mold around the stem.
Now that I’ve made my own version of pumpkin soup, I can see why my mom shrugged. Mostly, it’s ridiculously easy. For my version, I’ve even skipped the common step of roasting the squash. Instead, I put the peeled, raw pieces directly in the broth to be braised until soft. Kabocha peel is edible, but in this soup I suggest peeling to avoid discoloration.
This is not the same recipe my mom made that night. Instead, it is my own tribute to a beautiful food memory.
KABOCHA RED CURRY SOUP
1 kabocha pumpkin
4 cups chicken broth
1 can coconut milk
3 teaspoons Thai red curry paste (see note)
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Cut pumpkin into fourths, scoop out seeds, and peel green skin. Cut into 1-inch pieces. Measure out about 5 cups and put the rest away for another use.
In large soup pot over medium heat, simmer pumpkin and chicken broth until pumpkin is very soft and breaking apart, 15 to 20 minutes.
Add coconut milk, curry paste, cumin and coriander; stir until incorporated.
Working with half of soup at a time, blend on a low speed until completely puréed and silky. (An immersion blender works best.)
Return soup to pot over medium-low heat. If necessary, add water to thin. Add salt to taste and stir, heating until very hot. Taste and adjust spices as you like.
The soup will get thicker when it sits so if there are leftovers you may need to add more broth or water.
Nutritional analysis unavailable.
Note: I used Thai Kitchen brand Red Curry Paste, which is very mild. The heat of different curry pastes varies widely. If you are using an unfamiliar brand, add to soup in small amounts and taste as you go.
Mariko Jackson blogs about family and food at www.thelittlefoodie.com.