It was supposed to be the first time since February that Waipio Valley was opened to the outside world.
Instead, those who tried to enter the renowned valley on the Hamakua Coast of Hawaii island were met by dozens of residents, elders, taro farmers and the area’s lineal descendants in an organized protest.
Seven months after Hawaii County Mayor Mitch Roth closed the road to outsiders due to safety concerns, he had reopened it again — only this time access starting last Monday was limited to Hawaii island residents, cultural practitioners and county-permitted tour company operators in covered four-wheel-drive vehicles.
That was the plan, anyway.
For the last week protesters have gathered daily at a “kupuna checkpoint” at Waipio Valley Lookout, stopping cars and strongly urging them to drive no farther, warning them that the steep, one-lane Waipio Valley Road that descends into the valley is unstable and unsafe for excess traffic.
The group, called Protect Waipi‘o Valley, is circulating an online petition and vowing to continue the checkpoint until the mayor changes his mind.
“Our stand is about the road. It isn’t safe,” declared Darde Gamayo, a Waipio Valley resident and one of those who responded to a call by the area’s kupuna to organize the protest.
In February, Roth closed the valley to visitors in an emergency proclamation that cited hazardous conditions and an imminent threat of falling rocks on the steep road. A geotechnical report found the narrow road to be prone to rockfalls and landslides.
The closure took many on Hawaii island by surprise, especially the surfers and fishermen who regularly visit the Waipio Valley shoreline. They would come together to form a group to oppose the edict.
“We believe that the management of access into Waipio is necessary, especially with increased tourism and an expanding population on Hawaii island,” said Roland Shackelford, leader of the new group called Malama i ke Kai ‘o Waipi‘o. But the mayor’s emergency proclamation, he said, did not directly address these issues while severely affecting the local community.
The group sued, alleging Roth relied on a flawed report and pointing out there is no record of injury or death from rock falls, landslides or roadway failures along Waipio Valley Road at any time in the last 50 years.
The dispute led to mediation and, finally, to an agreement to partially reopen the road. The amended emergency rules allowed Hawaii island residents, permitted tour companies and cultural practitioners access to the road in covered four-wheel-drive vehicles, while forbidding pedestrians, horse riders and uncovered vehicles, such as ATVs.
The Waipio Valley community was appalled, according to Gamayo. The mayor, she said, made his announcement without even talking to the Waipio Valley community.
What’s more, the road has not been repaired, she said, and its condition only promises to worsen if commercial tour vans weighing over 10 tons drive over the road multiple times per day.
THE AREA’S kupuna for decades have been calling for the road to be open only to farmers, residents and individuals who give back to Waipio, such as cultural practitioners, those working the taro fields or caring for Waipio’s natural and cultural resources, Gamayo said.
“We need to aloha and protect Waipi‘o Valley,” Waipio resident Jeremiah Kaholoa‘a said in a statement. “And for us aloha is respect, respect for Waipio as a wahi pana, respect for our lifestyles, respect for our safety and respect for Waipi‘o’s unique history and resources.”
Sometimes referred to as the “Valley of the Kings,” Waipio was home to ancient Hawaiian chiefs and at one time a large population. It is considered a wahi pana, or sacred site, for its legendary role in Hawaiian culture.
Today, the majestic Waipio — with its picturesque taro fields, waterfalls and black sand beach nestled below towering valley walls — is a magnet for tourists.
Shackelford, who grew up surfing there, said his group supports Protect Waipi‘o Valley in its stand against tourism.
He noted that his group didn’t ask for a resumption of tour operations — that was an addition made by the county during the mediation process.
“It seemed that the mayor was responding to threats of a renewed lawsuit by the tour operators, and his path was predetermined, with or without our support. In fact, the mayor issued his amended emergency declaration before presenting formal settlement terms,” Shackelford said.
“It is clear that tourism is unacceptable to the Waipi‘o Valley kupuna, farmers and ohana,” he said. “And without a collaborative management plan in place for the short and long term, we support this refusal.”
Gamayo said Protect Waipi‘o Valley actually supports tourism.
“But the destination is at the top of the road; it’s not on the valley floor,” Gamayo said, noting that tourists can take in a spectacular view of the valley and the dramatic coastline from the lookout.
“The county owns no land in Waipio Valley. The county only owns the road. That is it.”
THE MAYOR’S office did not respond to Honolulu Star-Advertiser requests for further comment and information last week. Roth did issue a statement Monday:
“Our administration stands by the potential danger that the Waipi‘o Valley Access Road presents to all who traverse it. To mitigate that potential danger, we closed the roadway to all non-valley residents and/or kalo farmers in February. Since then, we have been challenged on our decision in court and have gone through mediation regarding access rules for other constituencies, have listened to additional community concerns, and have continued to review expert information.”
The statement went on to say, “We understand that the residents, kupuna, and kalo farmers of the valley are asking that no one enter the valley at this time unless they have an immediate responsibility there or are a resident. Our administration supports their efforts to educate prospective visitors about their sentiments and asks the community to be mindful of their actions as they affect others.
“Hawai‘i Island is a place of great respect and aloha, and we are confident that our residents and visitors will make decisions representative of such. We look forward to continued discussions regarding access to the roadway and encourage everyone who is a stakeholder to participate in those meetings to ensure their mana‘o is represented. This is the only way that we will be able to ensure a thriving Hawai‘i Island where all our keiki can thrive and succeed.”
Another meeting about the closure is reportedly planned for early October.
For now, the checkpoint continues, with authorities so far taking a hands-off approach. Protest organizers on Friday said all of those who intended to go into the valley, excluding farmers and residents, have to date respected the wishes of the kupuna and turned around.
“We’re doing it in a totally pono way. We’re not linking arms or blocking the road,” Gamayo said.
Meanwhile, the tour companies who ordinarily take visitors into the valley have been left on the sidelines.
Gary Matsuo, president of Waipio Valley Shuttle, said that while he understands the concerns of the community, he’s hoping for a peaceful resolution.
“I hope to be returning to work soon,” he said.