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High-surf warning in effect for all Hawaiian Islands due to ‘historic south swell’

JAMM AQUINO / JULY 16
                                A surfer rides a large wave at Ala Moana Bowls during a large south swell.

JAMM AQUINO / JULY 16

A surfer rides a large wave at Ala Moana Bowls during a large south swell.

Former Tropical Storm Darby dissipated southwest of Hawaii island on Saturday evening, but not the high-surf warning which remains in effect today through Monday for the south-facing shores of all Hawaiian Islands.

The National Weather Service in Honolulu reports that “a historic south swell out of the 170- to 190-degree direction” will create dangerous, breaking waves occasionally sweeping across portions of beaches.

Expect surf of 18 to 24 feet today, decreasing to 15 to 20 feet on Monday. The warning is in effect until 6 p.m. Monday.

>> RELATED: High-surf warning prompts road, beach park closures

According to forecasters, large breaking waves and strong currents may affect harbor entrances and channels which may cause challenges for boaters. Exercise caution when entering or leaving ports of south-facing harbors due to potential water surges over the next couple of days.

A small craft advisory is in effect until 6 a.m. Monday for all coastal waters. Conditions will be hazardous to small craft. The National Weather Service advises inexperienced mariners and those operating small vessels to avoid navigating in these conditions.

“Boaters should be aware of an increased number of surfers and bodyboarders utilizing the harbor channel to access surfing areas,” forecasters said.

Beaches that remain typically dry may be flooded and vulnerable low-lying coastal roadways may be overwashed.

“A combination of large surf and regular predicted water levels could lead to flooding of beaches that typically remain dry, especially at and around the peak daily tide,” forecasters said.

Large, breaking surf, significant shore break, and dangerous currents make for hazardous conditions. Forecasters warn the public that anyone entering the water could face significant injury or death.

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