This recipe puts store-bought gnocchi to good use, browning it in a pan for a mix of crispy outsides and chewy middles. It’s then paired with juicy tomatoes and melty, blistered pockets of mozzarella for even more crisp-tenderness.

Use cherry tomatoes here, as they’re reliably more flavorful year-round than larger, more watery varieties, like beefsteak and heirloom. But whatever kind you use, taste your tomatoes, and if they’re more tart than sweet, add 1/2 teaspoon sugar.

Crispy Gnocchi With Burst Tomatoes and Mozzarella

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

• 2 (12- to 18-ounce) packages shelf-stable or refrigerated potato gnocchi

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter (1/2 stick)

• 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, plus more for serving

• Kosher salt and black pepper

• 2 pints small tomatoes, such as cherry, grape or Sungold

• 1/4 cup basil leaves, thinly sliced or torn (optional), plus more for serving

• 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut or torn into 1/2-inch pieces

Directions:

Heat the broiler with a rack about 6 inches from the heat source.

In a large skillet on the stovetop, heat enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom of the pan over medium-high. Add half the gnocchi to the pan, breaking up any that are stuck together. Cover with a lid or baking sheet and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown on one side, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi and olive oil.

Add the butter to the skillet and cook over medium-high, stirring often, until golden-brown and toasty, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the garlic, red-pepper flakes, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and a few grinds of pepper, reducing the heat slightly if necessary to avoid scorching. Add the tomatoes and 3 tablespoons water and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the tomatoes have softened and the liquid has slightly thickened, 4-6 minutes.

Smash the tomatoes as they burst to help them along.

Add the seared gnocchi and 1/4 cup basil, stir to coat, then shake into an even layer. Top with the mozzarella and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Broil until the cheese is melted and browned in spots, 2-4 minutes. Top with more basil, red-pepper flakes and black pepper as desired.

Total time: 25 minutes, serves 4.

© 2022 The New York Times Company