I’ll make soup out of almost anything, but potatoes are a staple in the pot. Usually, I pair them with leeks for a brothy soup filled with pillowy nuggets of Yukon Golds.

But this potato-cheddar variation is an entirely different thing. Taking its cue from cheesy mashed potatoes, it’s a silky-smooth puree that’s rich but not excessive, hearty but not heavy, and spiked with a little chili powder and a lot of garlic to liven things up.

Served unadorned, it’s a lovely and mellow meal in its own right. But the no-cook, quick- pickled jalapenos really make it shine, and throwing them together couldn’t be easier. Just slice them, douse them with fresh lime juice, stir in a pinch of salt and sugar, and let everything hang out while the soup simmers. That’s all there is to it, and the payoff is big, with the jalapeno slices perking up every spoonful of soup.

Along with pickled peppers, I garnish bowls with some cilantro and scallions for freshness, plus plenty of grated cheddar, which melts into a gooey raft as it meets the hot soup.

POTATO-CHEDDAR SOUP WITH QUICK-PICKLED JALAPENO

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 large Spanish or white onion, diced
• 2 celery stalks, diced
• 2 teaspoons Kosher salt, plus more as needed
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, plus more for garnish
• 2-1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 quart vegetable broth
• 2 cups grated cheddar (8 ounces), plus more for garnish
• 1 cup half-and-half, or use 1/2 cup whole milk and 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Black pepper, to taste
• 3 scallions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
• Chopped cilantro, for serving
• >> Pickles:
• 2 jalapenos
• 2 limes, halved
• Pinch Kosher salt
• Large pinch sugar or drop of honey

To make jalapeno pickles: Slice peppers, discarding seeds if you want to reduce spiciness. Put slices in a bowl and squeeze in enough lime juice to cover them. Add salt and sugar. Let sit at room temperature while you make the soup. (The pickles can be prepared up to 5 days ahead and refrigerated; they’ll get softer and more pickle-y.)

In a large pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion, celery and a large pinch of salt; saute until lightly golden and soft, about 10 minutes.

Add garlic and chili powder; saute until fragrant, 1 minute. Add potatoes, broth and 2 teaspoons salt; bring to simmer. Cook until potatoes are very tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

Puree soup, using an immersion blender (or transfer soup to a regular blender in batches), adding water as needed to thin it out. (The soup can be as thick or brothy as you like.)

Return soup to pot if you removed it; reduce heat to medium-low. Add cheese and half-and-half; cook at a very gentle simmer, stirring, until cheese melts, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.

Top each bowl with pickled jalapenos, plus a drizzle of their pickling liquid and a pinch of chili powder, along with scallions, cilantro and more cheddar. Serves 4 to 6.

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