Embrace desert season with a camping trip to Anza-Borrego
SAN DIEGO >> Few places are as vast and ever-changing as the desert, where the landscape shifts with the seasons and life impressively thrives in a hostile environment.
One of the best ways to enjoy this dynamic is by camping in the Anza-Borrego, where state parks protect more than 600,000 acres of land — the largest state park in California. The months from roughly November to April are considered the desert season, when visitors can avoid extreme heat and catch potential wildflower blooms.
“Each part of the park is really unique and there are so many different types of things you can see,” said Samantha Young, education manager at the Anza-Borrego Foundation, pointing to features such as dunes, badlands and palm oases.
Anza-Borrego allows camping nearly everywhere in the park, as long as the site is set up a safe distance off a road.
It’s also considered a “trailless park,” Young said, meaning that hikers don’t have to be on a trail while they’re out exploring, even though there are several designated campgrounds and hiking trails.
Desert camping can also be a great introduction for first-time campers, Young said, since it’s easy to find a flat surface to pitch a tent and there aren’t constant flies or mosquitoes.
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“We do have plenty of insects and wildlife, but it doesn’t feel like it’s in your face,” she said.
Where to camp
Desert camping will look different depending on the kind of experience visitors are seeking. There are designated campgrounds (around $30 per night), plus more primitive sites and dispersed camping (free). After deciding on the type of camping they want to do, visitors should review a map to determine where in the park they want to explore.
Each style of camping has its benefits. In reporting this story, the home base was Agua Caliente County Park, an organized campground with tent and RV campsites, cabins with air conditioning and heat, bathrooms with showers and even an amphitheater where the park sometimes hosts educational presentations.
Other designated campgrounds include Vallecito County Park, Borrego Palm Canyon and Tamarisk Grove. The latter two sites can be booked through the State Parks reservations website.
But a trip over to Blair Valley made it clear why primitive camping draws many campers. Despite fewer amenities, it’s more peaceful and campsites are large. These campgrounds are often first come, first served. In some cases, campers will need to bring their own fire rings since ground fires are prohibited in the park.
If visitors are interested in dispersed camping, done on public lands outside of a designated campground, Young said it’s important to first read up on the park’s resources and road conditions. She also emphasizes the importance of leaving no trace when backcountry camping.
“This is always an awkward subject, but in the desert, it’s recommended that you pack in and pack out everything, including human waste,” she said. “In many places, you go to the bathroom in the forest and you bury it, but it doesn’t disintegrate in the same way in the desert.”
Desert camping safety
It’s important to keep an eye on the weather. While daytime temperatures will likely be mild — in mid-January, the highs were in the 60s — they can drop by about 20 degrees at night. Check the forecast for rain before heading out, as well.
The desert is — naturally — very dry, so it’s wise to bring lip balm and moisturizer. It’s also known for its high winds in the afternoons and evenings, Young said. This can be hazardous if gear starts flying around, especially if there’s a nearby campfire.
Before going to sleep, secure anything that could be picked up by the wind, and put out a campfire. If tent camping, stake the tent into the ground or place rocks inside to make it heavier. Young recommends setting the tent next to a hillside or behind a vehicle to create a protective barrier from the wind.
Also, watch road conditions, which can shift with the rain and wind. And note that some desert roads require four-wheel drive because the road is very soft and sandy, she said.
Find more winter camping tips from the state parks there.
Hiking in the area
Campers can set out on a hike from anywhere in Anza-Borrego, with treks lasting from less than an hour to daylong adventures and backpacking trips. Even in the winter, bring a sufficient amount of water — about half a liter per hour is recommended for moderate activity in moderate temperatures — and use a compass or a map of the area to avoid getting lost.
Hiking in the desert also requires adaptability; it can be easy to get off trail, and road conditions may prevent hikers from reaching their trailhead of choice. Note that dogs are not allowed on trails and must be kept on a leash in campgrounds and on park roads.
Many hiking trails start in or near campgrounds. For example, the Moonlight Canyon Trail, a 1.6-mile easy-to-moderate loop, starts at Agua Caliente County Park and takes hikers through the shady Moonlight Canyon before traversing behind a mountain.
Then there’s the Marshal South Trail, a 2-mile moderate out-and-back hike on the southern side of Blair Valley. The trail climbs to the top of the 3,200-foot Ghost Mountain, where the writer and artist Marshal South moved with his wife in 1930. Hikers can tour the remnants of their home, where they lived for 16 years and raised three children.
Nearby attractions
Hiking isn’t the only activity to do on an Anza-Borrego camping trip.
The desert and Borrego Springs — a small town located on the northern side of the park — are some of the best places to stargaze, since the state park is an International Dark-Sky Park and Borrego Springs is a designated Dark Sky Community.
In Borrego Springs, visitors will also find restaurants, a farmers market on Fridays and Galleta Meadows Estate, a sculpture park with giant metal prehistoric animals and creatures made by artist Ricardo Breceda.
Campers can also enjoy natural geothermal springs at Agua Caliente County Park, where there are three pools, free to Agua Caliente campers and $3 for a day pass.
Right now, there is a chance to see the desert’s wildflower blooms, making it an especially nice time to camp.
Flora and fauna
Besides the wildflower blooms in late winter, the Anza-Borrego desert has incredible plants year round.
Keep an eye out for cactus, primarily cholla. Worldwide, there are more than 30 different types of cholla cacti, and in the Anza-Borrego, it’s common to see jumping cholla, or teddy bear cholla, named after its fuzzy appearance.
Cholla branches may fall from the plant onto the desert floor, where they can eventually root and reproduce, so it’s best to wear sturdy hiking shoes to avoid a painful run-in. The barbs attach securely if brushed up against, so use tweezers, pliers or a rock to detach them if you fall prey.
In terms of wildlife, campers may hear coyotes yipping in the distance or crossing a road and see birds such as roadrunners scurrying through a campground, plus rattlesnakes, lizards and rodents. (Young advised putting away food at night, such as in a vehicle, so rodents can’t snack on it overnight.)
There’s also the chance to see the endangered peninsular bighorn sheep.
“We never promise that anyone’s going to see them. They camouflage incredibly well in the landscape,” Young said. “But they are out there.”