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Kaneohe photographer explores a vibrant Vietnam

A recent visit to Vietnam was for me an exploration of the culture, past and present, and the culinary scene. We journeyed from the crowded streets of Ho Chi Minh City and its bustling environs, to the coastal town of Hoi An, into the mountains of Dalat. While much tourism to Vietnam still revolves around the Vietnam War — or the American War, as the Vietnamese call it — this vibrant country offers so much more than war museums and memorials. Our ventures took us through bars and beaches, around ancient temple ruins and down a river lit with lanterns celebrating the full moon.

By Douglas Peebles / Special to the Star-Advertiser

Jan. 14, 2023

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In Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1, the heart of the city once called Saigon, the first thing you’ll notice is the traffic. It looks chaotic and dangerous. Crossing the street is an adventure. There are a few crosswalks and lights. Some cars actually do stop for pedestrians, but almost none of the mopeds do and there are thousands of mopeds on every street. You just have to pick your moment and jump in. Try not to change your pace and never step backward.
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Venturing north of Hoi An, we visited the Imperial City of Hue, built in the early 1800s as the home of the emperor, Gia Long. The capitol moved back to Hanoi, but the buildings were in use until 1945. The site suffered extensive damage, both during an uprising in 1947 and the Tet Offensive in 1968. It is now a UNESCO site with the remaining buildings restored and more work being done. This is the Ngo Mon Gate.
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Venturing north of Hoi An, we visited the Imperial City of Hue, built in the early 1800s as the home of the emperor, Gia Long. The capitol moved back to Hanoi, but the buildings were in use until 1945. The site suffered extensive damage, both during an uprising in 1947 and the Tet Offensive in 1968. It is now a UNESCO site with the remaining buildings restored and more work being done. This is a detail of Thai Binh Pavilion, the emperor’s reading room.
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Our last stop in Vietnam was the mountain town of Dalat, where temperatures were at least 10 degrees cooler than along the coast. Dalat is often compared to Swiss towns, and it is easy to see why, given its central lake and swan pedal boats, such as these along Xuan Huong Lake. The town sees more local than international tourism and is the top honeymoon destination for Vietnamese.
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My favorite stop in Dalat was Linh Phuoc Pagoda. It was built between 1949 and 1952 and the mosaics, which cover almost everything, are made of broken pieces of pottery and beer bottles. Among its features are a dragon that is 50 yards long, the heaviest bell in Vietnam and seemingly hundreds of statues of Buddha. It is one of the strangest and most colorful temples I have ever seen.
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Ho Chi Minh is city of about 9 million people, but it’s possible to find a safe space to stroll. In the upscale center of District 1, Nguyen Hue Walking Street becomes a pedestrian-only zone on weekend evenings, offering street performers, light shows and other colorful entertainment.
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My Tho, south of Ho Chi Minh City, is considered the gateway to the Mekong Delta, a place of rivers and rice fields. My main interest, though, was in the large street market that covers several blocks. It is full of all kinds of fresh produce, and seafood from both the rivers and ocean. There was a lot that I had never seen before.
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A two-hour ferry ride leads to Vung Tau, a beach town that sits at the tip of a peninsula. It is a popular vacation spot for both international travelers and weekend visitors from the city, drawn by the beaches and seafood. Our lunch there was simple, but also the best shrimp I’d had in a while.
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At night Ho Chi Minh City truly comes alive, especially for those seeking a good meal. Over three nights, our dining ranged from slurping noodles while sitting on very tiny, low stools in an alley, to a luxe meal at Anan, which has been named the top restaurant in Vietnam for the past two years. Our Anan meal included this dish, called One Bite Pho. All the food I had in Vietnam was good, but Anan was fantastic.
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For a walk on the wild side, venture to Bui Vien Street, Ho Chi Minh’s bright and colorful sin city. The bars seem to compete for who can play the loudest music, and all offer male and female dancers. Street hustlers tried to pull us aside constantly, but they were not too persistent.
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The best time to visit the beautiful city of Hoi An is during the monthly full moon Lantern Festival, when the old part of town comes alive with brightly colored lanterns. Hoi An was an important port from the 15th to 19th centuries. Today the old buildings have become shops and restaurants, with a few temples and museums. The old town section is several blocks along the Thu Bon River and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its many canals offer a stunning vantage point during the festival.
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An hour out of Hoi An is My Son Sanctuary, comprising a series of temples from the Champa dynasties of the 4th to 13th centuries. Most of its best artifacts have been moved to the Cham Museum of Sculpture in Danang, making the architecture itself key to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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A half-day boat tour gave us an education on fishing off the Cua Dai coast. Rather than fish ourselves, we observed the several ways this occupation is carried out in the area, including in basket boats, these small round bamboo crafts. We also saw net-fishing canoes and old ocean-going wooden boats with banks of night lights.
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