It has been a long ride on a roller coaster of controversy, but Chris Ramelb can finally celebrate the honor he should have received four years ago.

After passing a rigorous taste test that was the final step in a three-stage certification process, the Kauai native has been awarded the title of master sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas. The title is “the highest distinction a professional can attain in the beverage service industry,” according to a release from the Court, with fewer than 200 Americans receiving the title since its creation in 1977.

Ramelb, a columnist for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser’s Crave section and co-host of its podcast “Wine &…,” was one of 10 people to receive the certification out of 45 applicants representing 16 states and three countries this year.

For Ramelb, 34, the award comes as sweet relief. In 2018 he also was certified for the Court, only to have his title revoked six weeks later after it was discovered that one of the master sommeliers administering the taste test leaked information to at least one applicant. Twenty-two others also had their test results disqualified. Further investigation led to revelations that rocked the organization, which led to the resignations of its entire board of directors.

Ramelb, although never implicated in the scandal, had to pass the taste test again to be certified. He failed twice before taking it again successfully Tuesday, receiving the news that he had passed Wednesday.

“Repassing the test is a bittersweet thing for me, because I felt like I earned it four years ago, but at least the bulk of the anger and resentment is gone,” he said in a phone call from Utah, where he was celebrating with “a lot of whiskey.”

The test required him to taste six wines and identify characteristics such as the grape, region of origin, vintage and quality level, plus explain how he made those determinations, all within 25 minutes. “For the first 10 minutes I felt like I was completely drowning,” he said. “I felt like I knew what most of the wines were instinctively, and because of whatever reason I tried to talk myself out of it. I didn’t trust my training and it was all this inferiority complex built up from the last four years, that’s where I got in trouble. But I got it together.”

Ramelb was facing additional pressure because if he had failed a third time, he would have had to start the certification process from the beginning, which involves a theory test and a “service” test in which a mock restaurant scene is created with various challenges and scenarios.

The scandal took a toll on Ramelb. Although he has continued to have a high profile in the beverage industry — he was allowed to proctor the Court’s exams and was a judge at last year’s Joy of Sake — he has faced continuing questions about the scandal. Losing the title of master sommelier also likely cut invitations to wine-related events and speaking engagements overseas, he said, an important perk of the business.

“It’s all for free, and I’m a Kauai boy, and believe me, getting to go to these places? I love that stuff,” he said. “I’m so amazed at the different cultures and the different foods and the different booze, most importantly. A lot was taken away, that’s for sure.”

Ramelb credited his mentors in Hawaii for helping him in his career. He got his start in the industry as a business analyst at Southern Glazer’s Wine &Spirits, where he continues to work, and has worked at Vino Italian Tapas &Wine Bar under Chuck Furuya, with Alan Wong’s restaurants and at Senia restaurant.

He noted that he is the fourth person from Hawaii, along with Furuya, Roberto Viernes and Patrick Okubo, to be named a master sommelier, having passed “supposedly the hardest test in the world, the gold standard for wine service in America,” he said. “That says a lot about us.”

“The best part of the process was that I love it again,” he said. “I’m really looking forward to getting back and helping grow the Hawaii food and beverage scene.”