Lent. It’s a time for reflection. A time for humility. And definitely a time for fish, at least on Fridays.

Observations for most Christians began Feb. 26, leaving four more Fridays for avoiding meat. A large number of devotees will turn instead to fish.

Here are two appropriate Lenten dishes, one with fish and one with shellfish, each so delicious I’m afraid they may not be entirely in the spirit of somber reflection and self-sacrifice.

But that’s OK. They’re great to eat when it is not Lent, too.

The first is from one of the most popular from Legal Sea Foods, the popular East Coast chain. Scallops are served in an exquisite mushroom cream sauce that gets its low notes from garlic and scallions, and its high from white wine, all piled atop bow tie pasta.

The fish dish is a traditional way to prepare fish: en papillote, or “in paper.” Packets of salmon, sauteed carrots and mushrooms bake in the oven, and the fish gently steams to perfection.

The whole dish, from presentation (everyone oohs and ahs when you cut open the packet) to taste, is stunning.

SCALLOPS AND MUSHROOM BOW TIE PASTA

Adapted from “The New Legal Sea Foods Cookbook: 200 Fresh, Simple, and Delicious Recipes From Appetizers to Desserts” by Roger Berkowitz and Jane Doerfer (Clarkson Potter, 2003, $30)

• 4 to 6 ounces portobello mushrooms
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 8 ounces bow tie pasta
• Vegetable oil (not olive)
• 1-1/2 pounds sea scallops
• 1 cup chopped scallions, white parts only, or sweet onions
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Remove stems from mushrooms and coarsely chop. Slice caps and set aside.

Place mushroom stems and cream in a small, nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and gently boil at least 10 minutes, until cream is reduced by half.

Add wine and boil 2 to 3 minutes longer. Set mixture aside. (Sauce can be kept in the refrigerator up to 3 days before using.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add pasta and cook until cooked through but still firm, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on brand.

Meanwhile, put enough oil in a very hot pan to film it lightly. Add scallops and sear lightly on both sides, to a light, nutty brown.

Add mushroom caps, scallions and garlic. Cook over medium 2 minutes, until mushrooms are barely cooked through. Stir in reserved mushroom sauce; reheat gently.

Drain pasta thoroughly and mix into scallops. Sprinkle with parsley. Season liberally with salt and pepper.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 439 calories, 16 g total fat, 10 g saturated fat, 62 mg cholesterol, 23 g protein, 62 g carbohydrate, 4 g sugar, 3 g fiber, 1,059 mg sodium, 58 mg calcium.

SALMON WITH FRESH DILL EN PAPILLOTE

Adapted from “The Seafood Cookbook: Classic to Contemporary” by Pierre Franey and Bryan Miller (Times Books, 1986, $32)

• 5 carrots, peeled and trimmed
• 3/4 pound large mushrooms
• 4 tablespoons butter, divided
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 3/4 cup scallions cut into 2-inch lengths
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill leaves
• 2 pounds salmon fillets, cut into 6 equal-size pieces
• 6 tablespoons chopped shallots
• 6 tablespoons dry white wine

Heat oven to 500 degrees. Spread large sheet of heavy-duty foil or baking parchment on flat surface. Invert a 12-inch round cake pan on the foil and trace around the pan with a sharp knife to make a 12-inch circle. Repeat this to make 6 circles.

Cut carrots crosswise into 1-inch lengths. Cut each piece lengthwise into matchsticks.

Cut off and discard stem of each mushroom; cut caps into thin slices.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in frying pan over medium-high. Add mushrooms and lemon juice. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add carrots, scallions and salt; cover and cook 7 to 8 minutes.

Sprinkle dill on top; stir well. Cover and set aside.

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in small saucepan. Place the foil rounds on flat surface and brush with melted butter. Spoon equal portions of carrot mixture on each circle slightly below center, leaving a margin large enough to fold over.

Lay a slice of salmon over each mound of vegetables. Sprinkle each serving with a tablespoon of shallots, tablespoon of wine and salt and pepper.

Fold foil to completely enclose contents, leaving some room for expansion. Crimp seal as tightly as possible. Arrange packages on a baking sheet; bake 8 minutes. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 351 calories, 18 g total fat, 6 g saturated fat, 104 mg cholesterol, 33 g protein, 10 g carbohydrate, 5 g sugar, 3 g fiber, 496 mg sodium, 48 mg calcium.