Kailua resident Maureen Nelson had always wanted to own her own business. She’s from Northern California, and wine made sense to her. So after 25-plus years in marketing and public relations in Hawaii, she took the plunge, opening D’Vine Kailua Wine Bar as one of the food establishments that moved into a location formerly occupied by Macy’s.
Nelson calls the venture that she co-owns with her California-based sister and brother-in-law, Geri and David Bennett, her “semi- retirement.”
“All three of us grew up drinking and loving wine,” says Nelson, “so this started as a family joke: ‘Hey, let’s open a wine bar in Kailua.’”
Open one she did, and it’s been doing well enough since launching in June that Nelson has plans to open another on the island within the next year or so, and perhaps an additional outer-island location.
THE EXPERIENCE
This is not the kind of bar where you go to get away from it all in the dark of a cavernous room. D’Vine is well-lit, with bright track lighting attached to its high ceilings, and the room and wine cups glisten.
The central focus of the room is on four wine dispensers imported from Italy, which provide a total of 32 vino varieties to choose from.
Signs outside and those listing the wines in the dispensers are artistically handwritten and decorated in neon chalk on blackboards.
The bar attracts a steady flow of regulars, Nelson says. On the early side of happy hour, the place appeared to appeal predominantly to women, but within a couple of hours, an influx of men had evened out the demographic. It’s a grownup crowd, mostly 30s and up. Gentle background music allowed for quiet socializing and people didn’t have to lean into their partner’s ears to hear each other.
THE FOOD
The happy hour food menu offers discounts on three charcuterie choices, pricing them at $10 each: a Cheese and Chocolate Board (normally $12); and a Caprese or Hummus and Cracker Board (both normally $14).
My party ordered the Cheese and Chocolate Board, which serves two. A porcelain platter arrived, spread with round multi-grain and soda crackers, cubed cheddar, wedges of smoked gouda and aged manchego, discs of 70 percent Manoa brand chocolate and a handful of Marcona almonds in a stainless condiment cup, all topped with a sprinkle of dried cranberries.
The crackers were basic, serving as a crunchy vessel for the creamy gouda that was lightly smoked, not overpowering, and the mild cheddar that had a fuller body of flavor than sharper cheddars. However, the manchego, made from sheep’s milk, was our easy favorite. We relished savoring it on its own, feigning politeness as we quietly jostled for the flavor- rich, crumbly wedges.
After nibbling on cheese, crackers and the salty, oily, addictive marcona almonds, the Manoa chocolates were a delight, too. Made locally with pure ingredients, the wafers instantly turned to decadent, oozing velvet, asserting themselves as a highlight.
D’Vine has panini and charcuterie menus, but signs at the door announce that on Thursdays, the spot also welcomes patrons to “BYOFMF” (“Bring Your Own Farmers Market Food”). Food can also be brought in from surrounding establishments, as long as it doesn’t duplicate fare offered on the D’Vine menu.
THE DRINK
Since wine is at the bar’s spotlight, I opted for experiencing the state- of-the-art wine dispensers. During happy hour a $50 tasting card, inserted to dispense the wine, goes for $40, and it does not need to be used all at one sitting.
With all of the choices, choosing wines was intimidating. I listened when Nelson pointed to what she said was the bar’s most popular wine and tried Mountain Peak Rattlesnake, a California Zinfandel. Taking my glass to the dispenser, I was able to select a taste ($10), half a glass ($15) or a full glass ($21).
We chose half a glass of each; my partner selected Three Rings, an Australian Shiraz ($5, $10, or $15).
True to its name, Rattlesnake had a bite, though the company’s website says the name is a tribute to the snakes that like to rest in the shade of the vines and not to its flavor profile. The first sip was sharp and aromatic; as it aerated, the flavors mellowed.
Three Rings was the opposite: It had a smoother, sweeter start and unfolded with a peppery finish.
Despite the wine focus, other flavors are also available. During happy hour, Ola brand beers brewed on the Big Island are $5 (normally $6), as are the red or white sangrias (normally $8), and the orange, guava or mango mimosas (normally $8).
THE VERDICT
D’Vine made for a casual but classy Pau Hana. Choosing my own pouring from an array of bottles available and choosing the amount poured was an experience unto itself.
The mood was one of relaxed socializing in a well-lit, open, inviting space.
This is a place I’d be happy to choose for a date night or a gathering with a group of friends.
D’VINE KAILUA WINE BAR
573 Kailua Road, Suite 106
762-3996, dvinekailua.com
Happy hour: 2-6 p.m. daily
>> Wine card, $40 (reg. $50)
>> Beer, $5
>> Specialty drinks, $5
>> Charcuterie plate, $10
