Although there are a few problems with Kovot’s Cheese Curler with Dome, I still like it, mainly for the elegance it brings to a charcuterie spread or a fruit-and-cheese table.
The gadget is simple to put together and use — screw the steel pin into the center of the round wooden board, making sure its four metal tabs are facing up. Then, place the center of the cheese over the pin and carefully push or twist it onto the metal tabs, lodging it securely. Place the curling knife on the pin and turn it clockwise.
My biggest problem was that I could only find wedges of cheese rather than wheels. I tried using a Manchego wedge, but it eventually broke in half because I could only anchor the wider end of the wedge. I also tried a rectangular Tillamook white cheddar block, sold at most supermarkets, but that didn’t work well either. I tested other cheeses of various shapes, but they weren’t big enough to anchor to the board completely.
Then I found a round smoked Gouda, which worked OK, and a Harbison wheel of cheese that didn’t work at all because it was too soft. I finally gave up and made a nice cheese spread, cubing the Tillamook, providing a spoon for the scoopable Harbison and adding crackers.
And then, just by chance, I came across two cheese wheels of the right consistency — medium-hard to hard — at Foodland Farms. One was a three-month aged Manchego and the other a Red Leicester with Chilies and Crushed Pepper. They were perfect!
>> Does it work? Yes.
>> Pros: It’s fun and easy to use. Brings a touch of elegance to any table.
>> Cons: The tool delivers pieces that are more like shavings than curls. Only works well with wheels of cheese 4 to 5-1/2 inches in diameter. The Leicester, at about 3-1/2 inches, still worked, but the wheel wasn’t completely secured onto the metal anchors. The handle must be removed for the dome cover to fit. Washing the inside of the handle requires a small bottle brush. There’s a circular hole at the top of the dome for the pin to go through, but why not just make it a little taller so the cheese is completely covered?
>> Note: The curler can also be used for chocolate. I couldn’t find a circular block of chocolate, but I did test a 5-by-3-1/2-inch rectangle piece about 1-1/2 inches thick. It was tough to push the block onto the pin, so I heated the pin with a lighter, then pushed the chocolate onto it. The chocolate broke in a few places but for the most part stayed intact.
>> Cost and availability: $19.99 plus shipping at amazon.com
>> Worth it?: It has its problems but I still like it.
Got a gadget that you love? Curious about one you’d like us to test? Email crave@staradvertiser.com or write Crave,Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813.