With their built-in handles and small size, economical chicken drumsticks are tailor-made for a cookout. We decided to devise a foolproof way to roast them on the grill to ultra-tender perfection with nicely browned skin and wonderfully juicy meat.

We usually don’t brine fattier dark meat, but since we were roasting the drumsticks for a fairly long time in the grill’s dry heat we brined them first in salt water to help them retain their juices as well as to season them. A light coating of spice rub also upped their flavor.

Before applying the spice rub, smooth the skin over the drumsticks so it is covering as much surface area as possible. This will help the skin render evenly and prevent the meat from drying out.

Our fire had two zones: On the cooler side we roasted the drumsticks beyond their usual doneness, to the point that most of their connective tissue had turned into rich gelatin and their skin had rendered gently.

Halfway through we rearranged the drumsticks, moving those closer to the heat to the outside and those on the outside closer to the heat to ensure all of the drumsticks were done at the same time.

We moved them to the hotter side until the skin was nicely charred and crisp, which took only 5 minutes.

GRILL-ROASTED CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS

By America’s Test Kitchen

• 1/2 cup salt
• 2 quarts cold water
• 5 pounds chicken drumsticks
• >> Spice rub:
• 3 tablespoons packed brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 tablespoon chili powder
• 2 teaspoons garlic powder (or substitute granulated garlic)
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Dissolve salt in water in large container. Submerge drumsticks in brine, cover and refrigerate 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Meanwhile, combine spice rub ingredients and place on plate.

Remove drumsticks from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Holding a drumstick by bone end, press lightly into rub on all sides. Pat gently to remove excess rub. Repeat with remaining drumsticks.

>> For a charcoal grill: Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.

>> For a gas grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature between 325 and 350 degrees.)

Clean and oil cooking grate. Place drumsticks, skin side down, on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook 25 minutes. Rearrange pieces so that drumsticks that were closest to edge are now closer to heat source and vice versa. Cover and cook until drumsticks register 185 to 190 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes.

Move all drumsticks to hotter side of grill and cook, turning occasionally, until skin is nicely charred, about 5 minutes. Transfer to serving dish and let rest 10 minutes. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 642 calories, 34 g total fat, 311 mg cholesterol, 1,215 mg sodium, 5 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 3 g sugar, 72 g protein.