Chef Roy Yamaguchi, probably Hawaii’s most successful restaurateur, continues to reinvent himself with Goen Dining + Bar in Kailua, a casual spot just 8 months old.
The name comes from the Japanese 5-yen coin, considered a talisman of luck, friendship and good fortune. When the restaurant opened in November, Yamaguchi said he wanted Goen to reflect a vibe of good times shared with friends.
As a bonus, you get to say stuff like “We’re goin’ to Goen for happy hour,” which by the way runs from 3:30 to 6 p.m. daily.
THE EXPERIENCE
Goen takes up a corner of what used to be the Kailua Macy’s, now called Lau Hala Shops. It’s a bustling spot for traffic, along a main entrance to a busy parking lot. You’re close here to Whole Foods Market, Target and Ulta Beauty, with Maui Brewing Co. right next door on on one side. So lots of people are passing by.
The corner is pleasant and comfy, set back enough from the pavement and shielded somewhat by foliage, including a couple of young but thriving lau hala trees.
It’s open-air, with coral-colored umbrellas shading the outer tables. Yamaguchi said it was important that the restaurant not be closed off, that it feel a part of the neighborhood.
Goen is much smaller and more casual than the high-end Roy’s restaurants that can be found in cities across the country.
The feel here is urban-contemporary, in colors of black and slate, softened by brickwork and pops of that coral tone.
Happy hour is held at the bar.
THE FOOD
The Goen’ to the Bar Menu for happy hour has six items, each priced at $5. If you go with a friend and both chip in 20 bucks, you can order one of everything, plus a drink each. But you’d be stuffed, so best not to think you have to try it all.
Our favorite was the kinako mochi, cubes of mochi fried to give them a perfect soft-inside-firm-outside texture, then dusted in roasted soy bean flour and green tea powder. Not your average bar snack, for sure. A bowlful of that plus another bowl of shishito peppers — slightly charred, their earthiness set off by bright lemon oil and a generous sprinkling of furikake — would be enough if your aim is just to tease the appetite.
Add more with the salmon onigiri — two triangles of rice, each with a center of shiso-flavored salmon and the traditional nori wrap. Sure, it’s a poor man’s sushi, but when well made, a rice ball is prime comfort food.
Rounding out the $5 menu are kalua pork flautas, crispy-crunchy Hawaiiian-Mexican fusion; BLT Sliders, the bacon replaced with succulent pork belly, layered with lettuce and tomato; and garlic waffle fries that take their garlic affiliation very seriously, under a pile of pillowy shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano. This trio would make a more filling set of selections for two. They are easy to share, as the flautas and sliders come in pairs.
THE DRINK
Draft beers are also $5 at happy hour, a discount of $2 to $4 on regular prices. The list includes Japanese and Belgian beers, as well as three from Hawaii.
I’d suggest something different, though, a locally made pineapple cider from Paradise Ciders, also $5. It’s light and bright, a good choice for afternoon tippling.
For wine drinkers, a red and white choice are available at $6, changing daily.
THE VERDICT
Goen brings home all you’d expect from a Yamaguchi restaurant experience: knowledgeable, friendly service and tasty, well-executed dishes. Can’t think of a better way to unwind after a spirited Kailua shopping excursion.
GOEN DINING + BAR
Lau Hala Shops, 573 Kailua Road
263-4636, royyamaguchi.com/goen-kailua
Happy hour: 3:30-6 p.m. daily
>> All dishes, $5
>> Draft beer, $5
>> Wine, $6
