With all the comings and goings of restaurants and bars in Hawaii these days, it’s difficult to find anything with much history around here.

The Chart House Waikiki has plenty of history. Local surfing champion Joey Cabell, with fellow surfer and California native Buzzy Bent, co-founded what would become a nationwide chain of steak and seafood restaurants known as The Chart House in the early 1960s. Cabell established the Waikiki operation later that decade, eventually selling his interest in the franchise but retaining the Hawaii location for himself.

Cabell, now in his 80s, is still known to drop by — or rather, drop in — on occasion, but if you miss him, you’ll still be getting an authentic experience.

“It hasn’t changed since I was a kid,” said our server Kealoha, a friendly young woman who said she used to go to the Chart House as a youngster and had always wanted to work there.

THE EXPERIENCE

You get a grand introduction to The Chart House in the form of its elegant curved stairwell, which leads from the entrance on Holomoana Street. (The Chart House’s address is on Ala Moana Boulevard, but the entry is on Holomoana Street, which runs parallel to Ala Moana and is accessible from Hobron Lane.) It leads you right up the bar area, a cozy space with low ceilings and wood furnishings.

The few flatscreens on the walls give nod to modern times, but only one of them was tuned to sports on my visit. The others showed beach and sealife scenes, appropriately enough, especially since there’s live music every evening starting at around 6 p.m., and you wouldn’t want cheering sports fan to interrupt it.

The Chart House Waikiki is especially known for its splendid view of the Ala Wai Harbor, and it’s hard to beat. As pleasant as open ocean and breaking waves are to look at, the tranquility of boats lined up on the pier can be just as charming. It was suggested that we come right around sunset, which overlaps with the Chart House’s long Sunset Happy Hour (4:30 to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 5 to 7 p.m. weekends). We did so, and enjoyed the golden hour, as the sun set over the Waianae Range.

Dress cool, though, because if you get one of the prime viewing seats out on the balcony, it will be plenty warm, even though the staff puts down the awnings to keep the glare and the heat from getting too overpowering.

THE FOOD

The Chart House has two happy hours daily — the Sunset Happy Hour and a Late Night Happy Hour (9:30 p.m.-closing nightly). There are different menus for each (the late-night menu features some bargain plates that include soup or salad), but both menus offer plenty of variety, from salads and steak dishes to even escargot.

The Sunset Happy Hour includes some offerings in half sizes, so I figured they must come in ample portions; this proved right. Bring a friend or an appetite when you come here.

One of the more popular offerings is the Firecracker Unroll ($13.25, regularly $16), a plate of rice, poke, nori strips, sprouts and spicy sauce. It’s called an “unroll” because it’s essentially sushi that hasn’t been rolled up. It had all the good taste of sushi without the precision of the presentation, so you could feel a bit more casual about wolfing it down.

Another good dish was the Fresh Ahi Won Tons ($12.25, regularly $13.75), which had a tender ahi tartare topping with avocado and firecracker sauce, presented in scooplets atop a crisp wonton skin. It was a fine combination of taste and texture.

I also enjoyed the Teri Bites, ($8.75, regularly $11.75) a simple teriyaki beef dish with sauteed onions and mushrooms.

THE DRINK

The drink offerings are varied and generous. During happy hour, it will run you $4.95 for domestic bottled brews like Bud and Coors and Miller, $6.75 for local drafts like Hanalei IPA and $6.50 for house wines.

I tried the Guy Tai ($9.75, regularly $11.75), a tasty and refreshing mai tai with Bacardi and Meyer’s Rum — named for a bartender who worked at the Chart House for 40 years.

Even more refreshing was the Mango Margarita ($7.50, regularly $11.75), served with a rim of Li Hing powder that added just the right amount of tang and sweetness.

THE VERDICT

There’s a good reason why The Chart House has lasted for so long — many of them, in fact: Good food, good drinks, a great view, a chill atmosphere.

Dedication and loyalty of the staff obviously help too.

So while there’s something to be said for the new wave of restaurants that has been sweeping through the island of late, it’s important to have a place that has a well-deserved sense of tradition and place as well. The Chart House Waikiki definitely fits that bill.

CHART HOUSE WAIKIKI

1765 Ala Moana Blvd.

941-6669, charthousewaikiki.com

Happy Hour: 4:30 p.m. -7 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5 p.m.-7 p.m. Saturday-Sunday; and 9:30 p.m.-closing nightly

>> Fried Calamari, $8.25

>> Fish & Chips $11.75

>> Garlic Chicken $9.75

>> Escargot Ala Ernest, $12.25

>> Pork Chops, $18.50 (half order $9.75)

>> Fried Rice, $12.75 (half order $8.25)

>> Lychee Martini, $5.95

>> Margarita, $6.50

>> Well drinks, $5.25

>> $1 off call drinks