There’s no reason a vegetable lasagna made with the classic trio of eggplant, zucchini and summer squash should be any less satisfying than a meat-based casserole, yet we’ve rarely cooked one that we’ve been moved to make again.

Some versions look tempting enough, with a topcoat of bubbly cheese and thick tomato gravy, but cutting out a square invariably reveals trouble at the core.

Often placed between the pasta sheets raw, the zucchini and squash turn out steamy and limp, flooding the dish with their juices — or, in some instances, undercooked and crunchy.

Then there’s the eggplant, typically not only soggy, but greasy from pre- frying. Add to that the usual patches of dry, grainy ricotta and it’s a wonder this dish ever became a standard.

What would it take to make a full-flavored lasagna with vegetables that could stand up to — and not wash out — the cheese and sauce? Ridding the produce of some of its moisture and boosting its flavor before adding it to the dish would be steps in the right direction.

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Vegetable Lasagna

• 1-1/2 pounds eggplant
• 1 pound zucchini
• 1 pound yellow summer squash
• 1-1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
• 12 ounces (12 cups) baby spinach
• 12 no-boil lasagna noodles
• 1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, minced
• 12 ounces whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (3 cups)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• >> Tomato Sauce:
• 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• >> Cream Sauce:
• 8 ounces (1 cup) whole-milk cottage cheese
• 4 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (2 cups)
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• Combine tomato sauce ingredients; set aside.
• Combine cream sauce ingredients; set aside.

Heat oven to 375 degrees, with oven rack in middle position. Grease 13-by- 9-inch baking dish.

Cut all vegetables in 1/2-inch pieces.

Toss eggplant with 1 teaspoon salt in large bowl. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil. Spread eggplant over coffee filters. Microwave until dry and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing halfway through. Let cool slightly. Return eggplant to bowl and toss with zucchini and squash.

Combine 1 tablespoon oil, garlic and thyme in small bowl. Set aside

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Add half of eggplant mixture, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are lightly browned, about 7 minutes.

Push vegetables to sides and add half of garlic mixture to center. Cook, mashing mixture until fragrant, 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into vegetables and transfer to medium bowl. Repeat with 2 tablespoons oil, remaining eggplant mixture and remaining garlic mixture; transfer to bowl.

Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Add spinach and stir until wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer spinach to paper towel-lined plate and let drain 2 minutes. Stir into eggplant mixture.

Spread 1 cup tomato sauce in bottom of prepared dish. Top with 4 noodles, overlapping to fit. Spread half of vegetable mixture over noodles, followed by 1/4 cup olives. Top with half of cream sauce and sprinkle with 1 cup mozzarella. Repeat layers. For final layer, arrange remaining 4 noodles on top and cover completely with tomato sauce. Sprinkle with last 1 cup mozzarella.

Cover dish tightly with foil that has been sprayed with oil and bake 35 minutes, rotating dish halfway through. Edges should be bubbling. Let cool 25 minutes; sprinkle with basil. Serves 8 to 10.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 537 calories, 33 g total fat, 14 g saturated fat, 68 mg cholesterol, 928 mg sodium, 42 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber, 9 g sugar, 25 g protein.

Find more recipes like Vegetable Lasagna in “Revolutionary Recipes.”