Hank’s has been my haute haunt ever since Henry Adaniya opened his upscale hot-dog stand in 2007.

Adaniya chose a nondescript spot in Kakaako, at the time a low-rent, low-rise, industrial area that was, frankly, a little scary to a lot of people. But his “froufrou” dogs, as he called them, made from specialty sausages and fresh, higher-end condiments, drew a following. I was an instant fan of Hank’s Haute Dogs, and continue to be a regular.

Twelve years later, Kakaako is full of froufrou — chic and no longer scary. Hank’s moved a few feet to classier digs in Salt at Our Kakaako in 2015 and continues to evolve with the neighborhood.

His newest acquisition is a liquor license; his latest addition, happy hour.

“Kakaako is exploding,” Adaniya says. “There’s so much going on, so we’re just jumping in the mix.”

THE EXPERIENCE

Adaniya came to Hawaii from Chicago, where he founded the acclaimed Trio, a restaurant that accumulated five Mobil Travel Guide stars (he’s got the medal; you can see it at Hank’s, up by the hot-dog stapler). Clearly his culinary pedigree exceeds hot dogs, even haute dogs, and happy hour lets him show off a bit.

Hank’s remains ultra-casual, an order-at-the-counter place accented in wood and corrugated tin, with highlight shades of ketchup and mustard. The restaurant’s picnic-style outdoor seating has been fenced in, in part to contain the alcohol, which can’t be carried off the premises.

It’s comfy and cheerful.

THE FOOD

When Adaniya runs through the happy-hour specials, every sentence seems to start with “I love …” followed by “pizza” … “fish sticks” … “crunchy tacos” from Jack in the Box — his favorite late-night snack, even after a fancy dinner.

Hank’s menu indulges all that.

Adaniya has always wanted to serve a fish stick as a ‘dog, he says, but couldn’t find one long enough to fill a standard bun. So he’s introduced a fish stick “slider” in a half-bun ($3 or two for $5). At heart it’s a basic frozen stick of cod, fried up and dressed up with remoulade sauce and a sprinkling of cheddar cheese. Surprisingly tasty, it will delight the kid in you.

Other sliders ($3.50; any three for $9) are more sophisticated: duck and lamb burgers, the duck with a sweet-tangy cherry compote, the lamb with Greek tzatziki sauce, onions and tomatoes; a Boar’s Head pastrami slider with thin layers of smoky meat and mustard.

You can’t go wrong with these easy-eating choices, but if forced to choose, I’d pick the moist, savory lamb.

My top choice, however, would be the chorizo taco, Hank’s salute to Jack ($3; three for $8). Cute and crunchy, these babies, topped with avocado crema and onions, are divine little balanced bites, just slightly spicy.

Rounding out the specials are zucchini shoestring fries ($3) and the Montanara Fried Pizzette, a 3-inch disc of fried pizza dough topped with tomato sauce and mozzarella ($4).

For bigger appetites, the regular Hank’s menu of dogs and the Hankburger are 20 percent off (regular prices $4.25 to $7.95).

THE DRINK

Decidedly not haute, the offerings here are simple and served in cans. Adaniya said he considered cocktails, but didn’t want to get into a full bar, so he made six light, fizzy picks that would pair well with the food, and keep costs down.

For beer, choices are a Maui Brewing Co. pilsner ($4) and that fine American brew, Pabst Blue Ribbon ($3).

For wine, there are a sparkling Underwood rose and pinot noir from Oregon ($10), a Sprizzeri Italian wine spritzer ($7) and a split of Bocelli prosecco ($8, the one item that comes in a bottle instead of a can).

If you’re into a more fullsome drinking experience, you can always take your food a few yards over to Village Bottle Shop & Tasting Room, where you’re allowed to bring outside food to eat with the premium brews.

THE VERDICT

Happy hour brings Hank’s into the Kakaako evening scene, but not too far into it. Previously closed at 4 p.m., Hanks is now open just a bit longer for pau hana, until 6 p.m., and only Wednesdays through Sundays.

It’s not a place you can settle in for the evening, but it does provide an economical, light dinner, or perhaps a little lubrication before starting a nighttime foray into Kakaako.