Craft beer has become a fad as of late, but Waikiki Brewing Company is beyond that. Though the brewpub only started up in 2015, at the corner of Kalakaua Avenue and Ala Moana Boulevard, its freshly brewed and tasty beer selection has proved so popular that it is now widely distributed in the islands. The company itself has expanded to a new facility in Kakaako, and a welcome addition it is.

THE EXPERIENCE

We went to the Waikiki Brewing’s Kakaako site, which opened in August 2017, taking over Fresh Cafe’s location on Queen Street. Waikiki Brewing has filled the warehouse space behind the storefront with brewing equipment and supplies, and the tanks and tubes can be seen through various doors. Much of the time the friendly staffers will be happy to give you an informal tour, unless the necessities of brewing call for attention.

Simply put, this is a classic beer-and-barbecue spot. It’s open and spacious, with indoor and outdoor seating, a few but not too many flat-screens inside for watching sports, and an outside “play” area where you can try your hand at large-scale Jenga or toss some beanbags in a cornhole game with friends.

There’s plenty of seating, inside and out, with some shade, some sun if you want it, and an industrial tech look that’s just the right combination of urban grit and sunny aloha.

The one caveat is that parking can be a problem for the early happy hour, 3 to 5 p.m. daily. The brewery has a few stalls out front, and parking arrangements with several nearby businesses, but those additional spots don’t open up until after business hours, so you might have to do some walking to get to the restaurant before 5.

There’s a night-time happy hour as well, from 9 p.m. to closing, when nearby businesses shut down and parking opens up. In either case, just ask and the staff will be happy to point you in the right direction.

THE FOOD

Happy-hour food features three types of pizza, topped with cheese, pulled pork or brisket at $10 each. We had the pork and the brisket pies, which were excellent. The brisket was especially good, with a wonderful smoky flavor.

With perhaps a side salad, the pizzas are big enough to make a light meal for one or a snack for two.

We couldn’t resist checking out the rest of the menu, given the wonderful barbecue aroma wafting through the place. That led us to the smoked wings ($12), brined in Coca–Cola and rubbed with a special seasoning, then smoked. I can’t say I tasted the Coke, but it didn’t matter. These wings were delicious — juicy and tender on the inside with the appropriate crispiness on the outside.

Our friendly waitress brought us three dipping sauces: one made with the brewery’s Black Strap Molasses Porter, a rich and spicy sauce with chipotle peppers; the Sweet Mango Bourbon, made with brown sugar and red pepper; and 808 Carolina Gold, made with the brewery’s 808 Pale Ale and Sriracha sauce. Having a penchant for sweet things, I especially liked the mango sauce, but they were all tasty.

THE DRINK

You go to a brewpub for the beer. Waikiki Brewing has nine core beers, including multiple varieties of ales and IPAs, the above-mentioned Black Strap Molasses Porter and a hefeweizen, called the Hana Hou Hefe. They’re all $5 a pint during happy hour ($6 regular).

For a first visit you might want to put together a sampler ($2 for a 4-ounce taste), then settle in with your favorite — most likely you’ll find several — on later visits.

It’s tempting to describe the brewing approach here as akin to the “kitchen-sink” – everything from jalapenos to fruit to molasses to chocolate and coffee makes an appearance in these beers. But there’s method to the madness, and that comes off in the refined taste and finish that I enjoyed.

I especially enjoyed the Eee Pah IPA, a relatively uncomplicated libation of centennial, cascade and simcoe hops, and the 808 Pale Ale, also made from centennial and cascade hops along with crystal malt.

The menu will give you the long and the short of everything that goes into the beers but, bottom line, it’s best just to drink them, appreciate the craftsmanship of brewmaster Joe Lorenzen, and not worry too much about the specifics.

Waikiki Brewing Company also has specialty beers. They’re not on the happy-hour menu and vary in price, so you’ll always have a choice to go with something good and new, or something good and familiar.

THE VERDICT

You can’t really go wrong with a pau hana at Waikiki Brewing Company. The beer is marvelous, the food is classic yet still intriguing, and the atmosphere relaxed and easy.

Being in Kakaako – and in one of the few remaining light-industrial areas in the district – it’s primarily a place for locals, though certainly anyone’s welcome.

It’s grittier than the shiny new places in nearby Ward Villages, which means you need not worry about dressing to impress; just come to unwind.