Herringbone, one of five restaurants with a “fish meets field” concept in locations including La Jolla, Calif., Las Vegas and Los Cabos, Mexico, has a winning concept for seafood-lovers, as its menu focuses on the ocean’s bounty. Seafood restaurants that aren’t all about sushi aren’t as plentiful in Honolulu as you might expect. (Nico’s, Uncle’s, we appreciate you!)

So while Herringbone isn’t as Hawaii-centric as many island-based establishments, it fills a welcome niche.

The restaurant is approaching its first anniversary, having opened Aug. 2 in the International Market Place. Founded by former “Top Chef” contestant Brian Malarkey of San Diego, the Herringbone restaurant group was acquired by the Hakkasan Group in 2014; Malarkey left Hakkasan to focus on his own San Diego ventures in March.

The restaurant went through a notable rough patch in October, when cases of norovirus left 45 diners ill in one weekend; after a thorough cleaning and sanitation drill. However, Herringbone now looks well on its way to building a clientele that includes locals — key to any restaurant’s success, even in Waikiki.

THE EXPERIENCE

As befitting a restaurant serving coastal cuisine, Herringbone is bright and airy, with furniture in earth tones, hanging planters and a retractable ceiling, the better to see Waikiki’s blue skies. There’s a sizeable skeleton hanging over the bar – a whale, perhaps?

TV screens don’t dominate the room, but there are a few, strategically placed so that you can catch the game, if necessary.

Service here is very good, with a knowledgeable, friendly staff.

Happy hour is served at the bar and lounge seating — high tables nearby — from 4 to 6 p.m. daily. I like sitting at the bar. Herringbone’s bartenders are happy to answer questions, and you might strike up a conversation with others nearby.

THE FOOD

Under the supervision of executive chef Raymond Locquiao, a Radford High and Kapiolani Community College grad who has worked at fine-dining restaurants in Aspen, Dallas, Las Vegas and Hawaii, Herringbone turns out fresh, good-looking plates that not only satisfy, but have you thinking of a return visit before you’ve even cleaned your plate.

Pau hana here is called “Oyster Hour,” and $2 oysters are a big draw. They are sourced from varied locations in the U.S.; the Washington state oysters served on my last visit were excellent, slightly sweet and just the right amount of briny.

The happy hour bargain is a Local Fish Taco, at $6 — it’s filling and delicious, offered with grilled or battered fish and served in a soft flour taco stuffed with slaw, pico de gallo and a crema sauce. Light eaters could easily make a meal out a couple of these and a beer. House-made fries are on the menu, too, at $6; I haven’t tried them, but they’re given a beachy twist — spiced with Old Bay.

Vegetarians could also make a meal out of the Margherita Flatbread pizza made with locally grown tomatoes and basil grown on site, $11, though it’s a basic option. The pungent, filling Brussels & Mac Nuts, $6, embellished with crispy Thai chilis, is a more satisfying choice.

Pulehu Steak, $15, provides a red-meat option. It’s a small plate, but delicious, dense with taste, served with taste bud-stimulating chimichurri sauce and a small serving of tossed baby greens.

My favorite dish is the Yellowtail Crudo, at $15 (a dinner-menu version is offered at $23). This is a clear winner, with lots of flavor: big bites of hamachi topped with truffle yuzu, crispy garlic and green onion. It’s garnished with bright, edible flowers, chopped fruit and microgreens; if you like raw fish, it will make your day.

THE DRINK

A short, serviceable list of happy hour drinks does the job, and the price is right.

Three cocktails are offered at $7: a Rye Old Fashioned; a Pear 75, made with gin, sparkling wine and pear juice; and a Strawberry Tarragon Caiparinha. I was intrigued by the caiparinha, sweet and potent, made with Brazilian cachaca (distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) and flavored with tarragon, strawberry, sugar and lime.

Wine by the glass is $6, with a French rose, house white and red, and sparkling wine available. I’ve gone back repeatedly now for the rose, which has proven tasty and astringent enough to stand up to every dish.

As for beer, three drafts are on tap for $5. Waikiki Brewing’s Aloha Spirit Blonde is a good choice; Michelob Ultra Draft and Stella Artois are basic options.

THE VERDICT

Happy hour choices here are appealing, especially for seafood lovers, at a decent price. I’ve been back to Herringbone three times now, and each time it’s been rewarding, with fresh seafood and pro servers enhancing my experience. Recommended.