The Counter has long been an outlet that’s eager to serve you your way. One of the first restaurants out of the gate to serve grass-fed beef burgers, it also has been making changes to keep diners interested, adding Mexican spice with an El Asado Burger and “Senor Diablo” salad, both featuring sliced, spiced cuts of carne asada beef, along with gluten-free, carb-free, even vegan options. Bottom line, there’s no need to let burger fatigue keep you away.

If you’re looking for the typically indulgent pau hana treat, turns out The Counter also has you covered. In describing its menu, the outlet uses the slogan “And then some” — turns out it’s true.

THE EXPERIENCE

The Counter’s in a convenient spot for East Honolulu diners, perched at a corner of Kahala Mall near the Whole Foods Market. That spot is always bustling with shoppers, and there’s outdoor seating near the sidewalk, giving the spot more of a neighborhood feel than the typical mall spot.

I took my pau hana as a chance to catch the afternoon sun at an outdoor table. At 3:30, it was shady and pleasant, but the dipping sun sent hot rays onto my table for a little while. I remedied that by turning my back to the light, and by 5, it was lovely and pleasant again.

Inside, The Counter is clean and contemporary, a comfortable spot to grab a fast bite or settle in for a bit. There is a full bar with seating if you’re dining solo or more interested in refreshment than a full meal.

THE FOOD

Chances are, you’re going to want to check out the mini burgers on special, at $5 for two. Choose between fried chicken, beef, a turkey burger or veggie patties, sized at just a bite or two and served on a soft, sweet roll.

During pau hana, diners can get “loaded” tater tots ($5, usually $8) topped with pimento cheese, applewood smoked bacon, scallions and buttermilk ranch dip, and they are both indulgent and delicious. Not bad! The only problem I had with this dish is that it alone was enough to fill me up. I needed to save some of the equally satisfying chicken wings (also served with a ranch dipping sauce — $5 for five, while a full order of 10 is normally $12) for the next day.

I’m personally just over eating fries — what can I say, it’s a new day — but there are comparably priced options for healthy sides here, with vegetable skewers, coleslaw or quinoa salad at $3.50 (same price as fries or onion rings), and a side salad with baby spinach or organic mixed greens at just $3. Starter salads are $5, if not ordering with a burger. All day long, Mondays through Fridays, The Counter offers a combo of burger and side for $12; burgers start at $9 and up.

THE DRINK

You’ll get a $2- to $3-dollar discount on a generous pour of wine during happy hour, with a glass at $5. I chose Apothic’s hearty Red Blend and found that it held up to the equally strong flavors of my food. California cabernet and chardonnay, and an Italian pino grigio were also offered as specials during my visit.

Beer specials will also save you a couple of bucks, with Kona Longboard Lager, Maui Brewing Company’s Mana Wheat, Lahaina Brown and Pueo Pale ales on tap.

THE VERDICT

Wine, beer, burgers and loaded tater tots? What’s not to love? If you go for the healthy options, The Counter’s salads and veggie burgers are yummy, too.