I could become a regular for happy hour at Michael Mina’s Stripsteak. The meticulously prepared happy hour plates here offer a taste of the approach and flavors that have made James Beard award-winning Mina a celebrity in the field, with more than 20 namesake restaurants (and counting) around the country, without breaking the bank. And the setting’s a winner.
STRIPSTEAK WAIKIKI
Grand Lanai, International Marketplace
800-3094, michaelmina.net
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Happy hour: 2:30-5:30 p.m. daily
>> Sushi rolls, $8
>> Crispy Short Rib Tacos, $9
>> Shishito peppers, $7
>> Stripsteak Burger, $21
The experience
Stripsteak is designed to appeal to a wide swath of potential patrons. You can visit because you want an expertly cooked and bountiful plate, but there are plenty of alternatives and small plates to satisfy an adventurous eater.
The service here is ultra-professional and pleasant, beginning with the courteous treatment you’ll receive if you call with a question or reservation. There’s no wondering what’s become of your server here, as every staffer seems to participate and to be on the lookout for a diner’s (or drinker’s) needs.
It’s a real treat to visit during the afternoon, when the pace isn’t rushed and the place isn’t crowded. On a good day, the bar is a cool haven from the heat, while lanai patrons can choose between sunny and shady tables, with comfortable seating and a quiet location. Both bar and lanai are available for pau hana.
The food
For a taste of the way Mina blends strong flavors and textures, you must try his Crispy Short Rib Tacos, two for $9, and shishito peppers, $7. These are no ordinary dishes.
The tacos are a great mix of fats and citrus, crunch and chew. Filled with dense shredded short rib meat, they are garnished with spicy cabbage slaw, wrapped in a crunchy taco and then a soft taco. In between the two tacos is an avocado sauce. Yum! While small, there’s a lot going on here, and I found two quite filling.
Shishito peppers are served atop a “carpaccio” of watermelon, and the cooling effect is welcome. There’s some heat here, in the yuzu vinaigrette and red pepper strings (how do they do that?) on top.
You might not expect sushi here, but seafood is prominently featured at this Hawaii location, as it should be. I was impressed by the happy hour selections.
Chirashi, $21, can be shared between two; it featured fabulous rice, ahi, hamachi and salmon, garnished with sake-cured ikura (roe) and kizami (seaweed). Sushi rolls, $8, and nigiri, $4 for one piece and $6 for two, are also available, and are carefully prepared and beautifully presented, elevating the happy hour experience.
The Loco Moco Sliders ($9) were perhaps the least essential treat I tried, though they were lovingly presented — topped with aromatic black truffle gravy and a cute fried quail egg. The small burger bites were served well done, and did not have the juicy blend of flavors you’ll experience in the Stripsteak Burger.
It’s a better choice to go with the burger. While pricey at $21, it’s also well-sized, made of a mouthwatering blend that includes Wagyu beef and brisket, and comes with garlic herb fries. It can be served in quarters, so bring your friends.
The drink
Bar manager Raymundo “Mundo” Delgado was mixing drinks and prepping for the dinner crowd when I stopped in on Feb. 9. He said the restaurant and clientele are having fun during the early hours, and it seems so.
The happy hour menu for drinks is limited to two cocktails, a White Tai and Kama‘aina, $7 each — a deal at this location, where cocktails are typically $13 and up.
Stripsteak’s delicious White Tai is a variation on the Mai Tai made with white rum, curacao, orgeat and lime and “whitened” with coconut; it’s powerful and tasty, especially when combined with the restaurant’s seafood offerings.
The Kama‘aina cocktail varies. Delgado said Stripsteak will be offering up variations on classic recipes with this menu item. On my visit, it was a Paper Plane — a gorgeous, fervently orange, bourbon-based drink, made with Aperol and lemon. “You can make a refreshing cocktail with whiskey,” Delgado remarked, mentioning a Kentucky Mule. This drink also made the case.
House wine, $7, and Miller High Life beer, $4, are available.
I’m charmed by Mina’s gesture to local style, a Pau Hana combo of chilled Crown Royal and Heineken at $8.08. Clever. My kamaaina pau hana partner dug that recognition, saying, “I’d drink that.”
The verdict
Happy hour at Stripsteak Waikiki is like a mini vacation. Recommended. I’ll be back.