For my final “Barfly” column of 2016, let’s go out on a high note — literally — with a couple of drinking options above Kalakaua Avenue in Waikiki.
The Waikiki Shopping Plaza has been home to Top of Waikiki for more than 50 years, and it was in 2014 that the restaurant underwent a significant update followed by the addition of a separate nightclub downstairs the following year.
Sky Waikiki opened to great fanfare in 2015 after its original grand opening was pushed back nearly two years, and while guests can order from a full dinner menu there, the space is better known as a weekend destination for the late-night club crowd. Structural updates at Top of Waikiki also brought significant changes in the kitchen and behind the bar, with chef Lance Kosaka at the helm in the back of house and new director of mixology Jen Ackrill overhauling the cocktail program with drinks inspired by her seven years of service at Rye in San Francisco.
SKY WAIKIKI
2270 Kalakaua Avenue, 19th floor
Open 5 to 11 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays
5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays 979-7590
skywaikiki.com
TOP OF WAIKIKI
2270 Kalakaua Avenue, 21st floor
Open 5 to 9:30 p.m. daily 923-3877
topofwaikiki.com
In recent months Ackrill has completely updated the drink menus at both Sky and Top of Waikiki, handing over most of the creative direction at the latter venue to lead bartender Max Kamm, who joined the staff when Ackrill first took over. In June, Sky’s cocktail list took on a surf theme, with each of the drinks named after popular breaks on Oahu. Earlier this month Ackrill was on hand at Top of Waikiki as Kamm introduced his new lineup of cocktails inspired by classic films.
While I wasn’t impressed during a media preview of the new Sky cocktails in June — mass-produced tiny sips of each drink served in plastic cups isn’t the best look — the bar staff has made great strides in consistency since then, and a recent visit showed vast improvement over what I originally sampled. Ackrill wisely offers craft cocktail options that will appeal to a wide cross section of the drinking public, from the classic “Blue Hawaii”-inspired Makapuu Blue ($11) for a fresh-off-the-plane tourist just arriving in Waikiki to the Sunset Sazerac and Chun’s Highball (both $11), another pair of classic cocktail variations that use Tanqueray gin and Highland Park 12-year-old Scotch whisky, respectively.
My favorite drink at Sky is one you typically need a group of friends to enjoy: the Banzai Pipeline ($195), which is made with Absolut Elyx vodka, fresh lime and grapefruit juice, house-made spiced simple syrup and star anise. It’s the perfect complement to a Waikiki sunset while relaxing on one of the 10 bar stools at the club’s outdoor bar. Ask nicely and you’ll probably be able to score a single serving of this one, but the $19 price tag might be a turn-off for some.
If you don’t need to hang out with the cool kids, head on up to Top of Waikiki, where the average customer skews a bit older but the drinks are still on point. Kam nails it on the beer cocktail front, with a perfect blend of Kalakaua Avenue neighbor Waikiki Brewing Co.’s Hana Hou Hefeweizen and aperol alongside a blend of fresh lemon, pineapple and lime juices in the From Beer to Eternity ($12), inspired by the 1953 film classic “From Here to Eternity.”
The 6 Days 7 Nights ($14) is inspired by the 1998 film of the same name, shot on Kauai, and is a variation of the classic Ramos gin fizz made with Giffard’s lychee liqueur, Tanqueray gin and fresh matcha, lemon, cream and egg whites. It’s definitely worth ordering if you like the taste of green tea. The pretty blue hue of the 50 First Dates ($13), made with Dolin Blanc de Chambery and Creme de Violette liqueurs and inspired by the 2004 romantic-comedy of the same name, is another unique offering that’s worth trying just for the house-made cardamom tincture used in the drink.
Other winners at Top of Waikiki include the Blood & Orchids ($13), which tastes a little like an amaretto sour — just made with pisco instead — and the In Harm’s Way ($14), named after the classic 1965 war flick starring John Wayne, Kirk Douglas and Patricia Neal. Its blend of bourbon and mezcal is well balanced with a little extra kick thanks to some fresh ginger.
Both venues offer special events on New Year’s Eve, with a masquerade party at Sky Waikiki and a special three-course dinner menu for $65 at Top of Waikiki. Los Angeles-based DJ William Lifestyle headlines at Sky, where $185 standing-room-only tickets provide access after 8 p.m. to an open bar featuring cocktails made with Tito’s vodka, fireworks viewing and a complimentary Veuve Clicquot Champagne toast at midnight. Call 979-7590.
At Top of Waikiki, New Year’s Eve menu items include roasted carrot and ginger soup or a winter chopped salad, red wine-braised short ribs and eggnog custard pie. Two-ounce wine pairings are available for an additional $20; an expanded five-course menu is also available. Call 923-3877 for reservations.
Jason Genegabus covers all things alcohol-related for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser and has written about the local bar scene since 2001. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram or email jason@staradvertiser.com.