Downbeat Lounge, sister space to Downbeat Diner on Hotel Street in Chinatown, offers a less crowded, more barlike option for happy hour in town. While other spots nearby tempt with bargains on otherwise upscale bites, Downbeat fills its own, valuable niche — it’s a dive for the people, with basic food at prices to fit a service-economy worker’s budget and a bar menu to die for, welcoming to misfits and high self-esteem patrons alike.
The experience
This lounge is dark, laid back and dependable: You can count on Downbeat to keep the atmosphere cool and the drinks coming. As the venue where Downbeat hosts live music later in the evenings, there’s a stage at the far end of the long room, with a long bar stretching down the side. Order at the bar, and pull up a stool or take a seat at one of the handful of high tables against the wall.
If you’ve never been to Downbeat, you will notice that this is a haven for rockers, punk- and otherwise. Some patrons and servers are partial to tattoos and bright lipstick, but there’s no exclusionary vibe; aloha shirts and officewear won’t get you stink eye. Point is, there is no point — it doesn’t matter what you wear, as long as you like food, drink and music.
DOWNBEAT LOUNGE
42 N. Hotel St., Chinatown, 533-2328, downbeatdiner.com
HAPPY HOUR:
4-7 p.m., Monday-Saturday
>> Half-price appetizers
>> $1 off all cocktails
Side note: It’s weird how one playlist can make you feel in the know, and another like a relic. On a thirsty Friday night, hearing late-’70s and early-’80s music from David Bowie, R.E.M., the Clash, Psychedelic Furs and the Pixies, I started feeling pretty cocky (helped along by the bourbon cocktail I downed). The next time around, with an intentionally ironic mix of greed-era slicksters such as Glenn Frey, Huey Lewis and Phil Collins, I regretted being old enough to have heard the music the first time around. But that’s Downbeat; with its punk-rock roots, you’ve got to expect a vivid environment, and yeah, maybe some attitude once in a while.
The service? It’s great; food comes quickly, and bartenders are happy to explain the specialty drinks in detail.
The food
Downbeat food is diner food, with a regular menu offering items like club sandwiches, quesadillas, chicken wings and fast salads. Prices are already low, but during pau hana, when all items on the appetizer menu are half price, the opportunity to save money is unbeatable.
I ordered nachos with vegan chili, normally $10, with all the extra toppings — avocado ($1), bacon ($2) and chicken ($2) — and got the whole shebang for $7.50. Since this is enough food to make a meal for two hungry adults, or to share between four, you are going to be pretty happy with this.
Want the classic bar sampler of Buffalo wings, fried mozzarella sticks and jalapeno poppers, normally $8.50? Yep, half price. And if you’re simply poor and hungry, check it out: A serving of chili and brown rice, topped with cheese and onions, will set you back just $2.50 during these golden hours. A Downbeat Quesadilla, normally $7.50, is nearly as good a bargain.
The truth is, happy hour is offered on both sides of the wall, but Downbeat is promoting its lounge as a pau hana refuge. And that’s the spot I’m recommending: If you’re going to eat bar food like this, then why not hunker down in a dim room, rock on your stool to the knowing soundtrack, and let your inner cave-dweller reign?
The drink
Downbeat takes its drink menu seriously, and new cocktails are introduced regularly, so that’s a good motivation for repeat visits. During happy hour, all cocktails are $1 off.
Try the Smash & Smolder, normally $9, with Bib & Tucker bourbon, lapsang syrup, muddled lemon and mint; it’s refreshing, with layered tastes, and goes down easy. Another good choice is the Rose Cobbler, a flowery drink, normally $8. It’s made with Tito’s vodka and a splash of pinot grigio, and flavored with rose, lychee and lemon.
I surprised myself by truly enjoying the Chinatown Zombie, a mix of rums including a high-proof varietal, described by Downbeat as “a quintessential rum rhapsody.” I might describe it as more of a one-two punch: First, it tasted great, sweet and tart, with a mix of rums, including a 151-proof pour; then it cast its spell. (The menu advises that there’s a two-drink limit on this, but unless you really do want to walk the sidewalks of Chinatown with glassy eyes, you might want to stop at one.)
The verdict
With its no-frills food and surprisingly awesome cocktails, Downbeat mixes up the earthy and sublime. I love that.