Thanksgiving is right around the corner, and it’s time to start thinking about the beverages. To complete your festive meal, you’ll want a drink that will work with all of those classic dishes, from turkey and gravy to cranberry sauce.
I’ve got a great suggestion: New to Hawaii is De Proef Brouwerij Zoetzuur Flemish Ale ("brouwerij" is Dutch for "brewery"). Don’t be intimidated by the complex name or unidentified style. This is a beer you’ll want to try. Its flavors will surprise you.
"Zoetzuur," or "sweet and sour," is brewed by a small, innovative brewery near the historic Belgian city of Ghent. De Proef was founded in 1996 by Dirk Naudts, a former professor of brewing sciences who specializes in yeast propagation. It has become one of the most technologically advanced breweries in Belgium.
"Proef" is Dutch for "to taste," and that message applies to the unique De Proef beers, which are grounded in tradition yet always experimental in terms of new techniques and flavors.
De Proef brews a fantastic line of Belgian beers. Zoetzuur Flemish Red (about $18, 750 ml) is an interesting adaptation of a classic Flemish ale that is typically tart and acidic — the most common classic example is the great Duchesse De Bourgogne. Zoetzuur is not meant to be as sour and pungent as Duchesse. Instead, De Proef strives to balance zingy tartness with sweet Belgian "kriek" (cherry) juice.
A dark amber color with hues of burgundy, Zoetzuur pours with a thick creamy head that creates a hockey puck-size ring of foam in the glass. The combination of oak, dark fruit and a touch of earthiness give off an almost vinous aroma. Hints of sweet and tart cherries pop with a swirl of the glass.
In a way similar to that of well-made wines, the balance between fruit and acid is key to a harmonious beer experience, and Zoetzuur achieves this.
The addition of Brettanomyces yeast to the fermentation provides just a touch of tartness and acidity. The addition of cherry juice, and aging in oak barrels, creates a wonderful balance among dark fruit flavor, slight caramel breadiness and the light acidity to help it finish nice and dry.
This is the one beer that will both complement and add interest to your entire Thanksgiving meal. The robust flavors and moderate carbonation stand up perfectly to turkey and gravy, while the cherry flavors go nicely with cranberry sauce. The soft caramel and roasted malt notes add depth to stuffing and mashed potatoes, while the dry finish cleanses the palate with each sip.
Find De Proef Zoetzuur Flemish Red at Tamura’s Waialae, the Liquor Collection and Bonzer Front Haleiwa.
Tim Golden shares his obsession with all things craft beer monthly in the Star-Advertiser food section. See his blog, “Beer in Hawaii,” at beerinhawaii.com.
