The recent stretch of hot and muggy weather has got me thinking about refreshing and thirst-quenching beers. Nothing is more satisfying on days such as these. This summer, venture beyond your normal go-to beer and try one that was made for the season.
"Saison," the French word for "season," is a style of beer that has been brewed in Northern France and Belgium for hundreds of years. It also happens to be one of my favorite styles of beer.
Saisons were traditionally brewed on individual farms in the winter for consumption during summer and fall harvests. Saisons are commonly referred to as farmhouse ales, which pays homage to the style’s roots.
Saison is one of the more complex styles of beer, and there is much variety within the style, which makes trying them so much fun. But one consistent characteristic is a crisp and dry finish.
A few recommendations:
» Honolulu Beerworks Animal Farmhouse Ale: You won’t find a fresher saison on Oahu. This is an easy drinking version, at only 4.7 percent alcohol by volume, yet it still possesses complex flavors and aromas. Hints of black pepper and citrus dominate the aroma, while flavors of toasted bread and floral hop notes are nicely balanced. Find this one on draft at Honolulu Beerworks in Kakaako for $6.75.
» Goose Island Sofie: This is a beer I regularly keep in my fridge. It’s a perfect choice to take to a dinner party because it pairs well with almost any dish, plus the bottling is beautiful. Aged in wine barrels with orange peels, this beer has layers of complexity in its aromas and flavors; these all come alive with the Champagne-like carbonation. The slightly tart and dry finish leaves a wonderful lingering flavor on your palate. Go to Tamura’s Fine Wines for this one; $9.
» Ommegang Hennepin: A farmhouse ale brewed with grains of paradise, coriander, ginger and sweet orange peel, this beer has incredibly diverse spice flavors. These are delicately balanced with a bready sweetness and floral hop bitterness. An interesting blend of ripe fruit notes and honey help round it all out. On shelves at Whole Foods; $9.
» Brasserie a Vapeur Saison de Pipaix: This classic Belgian saison dates back to the 1700s, when it was brewed for thirsty farmworkers. Its recipe has not changed since; it’s still brewed with two malts, one hop and six spices (pepper, ginger, curacao, sweet orange peels, coriander and roast chicory). The flavor starts slightly tart and follows with notes of overripe fruit, yet it finishes bone dry. This beer is readily in rotation but not always available, so be sure to seek it out. It’s worth the effort. Available at Brew’d in Kaimuki and Real a Gastropub at Ward Farmers Market; $9.
» Mystic Renaud: Hailing from a small brewery in Massachusetts, Renaud is a hidden gem. Brewed solely with pilsner malt and Saaz hops, its flavors and aromas are nonetheless highly complex. The power of yeast is left to shine in this beer, creating notes of lemon, coriander and sea salt along with a slight tartness. The very dry finish accentuates all the flavors. If you’re seeking a flavor adventure, this is one to try. Visit Brew’d and Real a Gastropub; $25.
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Tim Golden shares his obsession with all things craft beer monthly in the Star-Advertiser food section. See his blog, “Beer in Hawaii,” at beerinhawaii.com.
