Call em cracklins, chicharons, grattons, baconettes, scratchings, khaep mu or pork rinds, the deep-fried crispy combination of pork skin and fat has long been a staple of earthy cuisines, so much so that theyve also been packaged as snacks to munch on any time.

Thats not been the case with chicken, usually presented with skin attached, or removed for those trying to limit their fat intake.

But, some would say the skin is the best part of the bird when seasoned and deep-fried, and restaurants with an eye toward making use of every part of an animal are starting to put it on the table.

Before Agu debuted its Jidori kawa (deep-fried Jidori chicken skin) Friday, Tsukuneya Robata Grill was my go-to place for deep-fried chicken skin with the perfect measure of crispness, salt and fat. There are many wonderful things on Tsukuneya’s menu, but the idea of eating something so decadent raises the taboo quotient, making it even more desirable. You might want to get permission from your cardiologist first.

Tsukuneya is at 1442 University Ave. near Dole Street. Call 943-0390. Open from 5 p.m. Wednesdays to Mondays.

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