Like many women, Miki Lee said she always thought she looked better in baggy clothing that hid unwanted bulges and other perceived body flaws.

Then she met Mari Stewart, boutique owner turned wardrobe consultant, who Lee said "had a nice way of telling me, ‘Why don’t you try this size?’ She taught me to be more comfortable with fit and a lot more brave. She gave me permission to play."

As the spring fashion season begins and people begin to purge their closets to make room for the new, Stewart, working as The Wardrobe Mistress, has plenty of tips for those whose closets are full but who barely have the confidence to put together an outfit from day to day.

In the course of her work, she’s learned, "People don’t know what’s in their wardrobe. I find they like to wear a few things most of the time, and they forget about the other 75 percent of what they own."

In these days of struggling to make ends meet, she said it’s more important than ever to keep basic and versatile clothing items that can work for many occasions, and, "It really would help people to explore their closets because it’s difficult to tell what you’re missing if you don’t know what you have."

Stewart has found some of her clients have no basics at all, such as dressy skirts that are unsuitable for most occasions and difficult to pair with tops.

"A lot of people are impulse shoppers. It’s hard to know what their style is because maybe they’ve been to Vegas and picked up a piece there, or been in San Francisco and bought a dress there. There’s nothing to tie things together.

"My job is to help them organize their closet and try to pull in each piece so they become outfits, while still reflecting their personality."

Closet fever may be a particularly American affliction. Ample choices at every price point and the notion of fast, disposable clothing make it possible for anyone regardless of income to own more clothes than they need.

"A lot of people see it as sort of a reward for themselves, and there’s nothing wrong with that,"Stewart said. "The only thing is, to get more out of your clothes, ask yourself if it’s something that will work with several other items in your closet."

Stewart, who was born in Japan and raised in London, said that in Europe people tend to buy much less clothing and make their choices with an eye for quality, classic styling and longevity.

"Americans spend. It’s a consumer culture. Europeans are much more conservative. They’ll look for a good shirt, a quality skirt, and they’ll go home and think about it before they buy," she said.

Stewart, who opened the boutique Rafael in 1982, said the role of fashion consultant was thrust upon her by customers who sought her guidance because they didn’t trust their own eyes and instincts.

"A lot of them insisted on not leaving until they had a bottom with a top because they didn’t want to be out on their own without something to match it. When they saw separates, they didn’t know how to put them together, but when they saw pieces hung as an outfit, they totally got it."

This was new to Stewart. She had worked in several boutiques in Europe, and she said no one ever asked for fashion advice.

Confidence in personal style and attention to details starts in childhood in London, with students wearing formal uniforms to school. A culture of promenades and walking also gives people the opportunity to observe one another on the streets.

"Subconsciously, you take it in. You think, ‘Oh, that’s a nice look, that’s a nice color. I’d like to try that.’"

Add to that Hawaii’s fashion isolation. Up until the 1980s, fashion in Hawaii was defined by aloha wear, Liberty House, J.C. Penney and Sears.

Now we have a lot of choices. People can mix high and low items and trends, and for some that just amounts to more confusion. But building a basic working wardrobe is a good place to start.

The Wardrobe Mistress rates are $50 an hour for fashion consultation and closet organization, and $75 for add-ons such as personal shopping. For more information, email thewardrobemistress@yahoo.com.