A luau wouldn’t be a feast if it were not for luau, the leafy tops of taro. Laulau, the steamed taro-leaf bundle of pork and butterfish, is a key luau item, as is squid or octopus luau, the taro leaf-coconut milk stew that melts in your mouth.

We don’t often think of eating luau leaves except at a luau, but they are readily available in supermarkets and can be a nutritious component for any meal. A cup of steamed taro leaf has about 35 calories and is a good source of vitamins A and C, dietary fiber and protein.

Luau is not uniquely Hawaiian; taro leaves and taro are used in Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, the Caribbean and Pacific islands. Elephant ears and callaloo refer to luau.

The important rule about cooking luau is to cook it for a long time to diminish the calcium oxalate crystals that are part of the entire taro plant. When cooked, the large edible leaves become tender like spinach or chard. Luau has a unique aroma and taste and can be combined with meats, poultry or seafood with flavorful results. Adding coconut milk to steamed luau is like making creamed spinach, only better!

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.