At this time of year, thoughts turn to the Mardi Gras celebration next week in New Orleans. And when we think of New Orleans, we think of gumbo — and when we think of gumbo, we think of its key ingredient, okra.

Okra is not everyone’s favorite: Its viscous nature is loved by some and hated by others. But it is this characteristic that makes okra desirable in dishes like gumbo.

This versatile vegetable can be fried, steamed, pickled, boiled and braised. When cooked, okra releases a slimy element that thickens and binds ingredients.

Soups and stews become smooth and silky, and baked casseroles hold together with okra acting as a gel. Okra adds body to dishes without the addition of flour, cornstarch or fat.

Okra is not exclusive to Cajun cookery. Many Asian, Indian, South American and African dishes call for it.

Okra should be purchased fresh and used quickly after harvest; look for it at farmers markets. Green, firm, oblong okra pods have a ridged skin; they should be 4 inches or shorter to ensure tenderness. Trim stems before using okra whole or sliced.

If you want to try okra but hesitate because of its sliminess, try it deep-fried, like chips. Slice it into thin rounds, dust with flour and deep-fry until crisp.

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Hawaii food writer Joan Namkoong offers a weekly tidbit on fresh seasonal products, many of them locally grown.