In olden days, kulaia (festivities) were held throughout Hawaii to observe the birthdays of moi (monarchs) and other occasions. Outrigger canoe races were among the activities that took place during that time.
After the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom in 1893, however, canoe races were held but without any acknowledgment of the monarchy.
Fast-forward nearly 60 years. When the Molokai Hoe, the men’s Molokai-to-Oahu canoe race, launched in October 1952 as part of the Aloha Week Festival, hundreds gathered at Hale o Lono, the starting point on the west side of the island, for a weekend celebration. Campsites lined the entire beach.
Lori-Lei Rawlins-Crivello remembers being at many of those events with her family. “It was a big deal, our version of kulaia,” she said. “There was hula, live music and lots of ono (good) food. For us kids — my two older brothers, cousins and friends — it was an adventure. After the long drive from Kaunakakai to Hale o Lono, we looked forward to setting up our campsite and having a great time.”
During the day they hunted for oopu (gobies) and pipipi (mollusks) in tide pools and jumped into the ocean from lava rock ledges. Before sunset their dads swam in with hee (octopus), ia (fish) and ula (spiny lobster), which were cooked for dinner.
Molokai Hoe paddlers strolled from campsite to campsite and were welcomed at every stop to “talk story” and enjoy refreshments or a meal.“Being a part of that was awesome,” Rawlins-Crivello said. “The aloha spirit was alive; we were all one, visitors and kamaaina alike, just like one big ohana (family)!”
This went on every year for about two decades. Then, gradually, history repeated itself: No longer did throngs gather for festivities at Hale o Lono, and the Molokai Hoe continued without it.
In February 2014, Rawlins-Crivello, husband Ka-wika and Maria Holmes, another mover and shaker, came up with the idea of once again reviving the concept of kulaia on Molokai. Over the next few months, they solicited and received support from the community, companies and Maui County.
The Molokai Canoe Festivals committee was formed, and plans for a new annual cultural event began in earnest. Last year the inaugural Kulaia drew 3,000 people. Rawlins-Crivello estimates 4,000 will attend this year’s event during the weekend of Na Wahine o ke Kai, the women’s Molokai-to-Oahu canoe race (see sidebar).
“Kulaia helps build and strengthen the relationship between the people of Molokai and paddlers from around the world,” said coordinator Rawlins-Crivello. “It enables visitors to experience Molokai’s hospitality and educates them about our values, lifestyle and resources and the importance of caring for what we have. It also stimulates our economy by providing an opportunity for our businesses to sell their food, crafts, jewelry, clothing and other merchandise.”
There also will be demonstrations of lau hala weaving, poi pounding and awa (kava) preparation, and exhibits on fishpond restoration and ocean resource management. Members of the Polynesian Voyaging Society will provide updates on the current worldwide voyage of Hawaii’s famed sailing canoe, the Hokule‘a; and lomilomi practitioners from Ka Pa o Lonopuha, a lomilomi school on Oahu, will give free massages and lead a free workshop.
Spotlighting at least one community leader is a key aspect of Kulaia. Last year’s honorees were Hannie Anderson, one of the founders of Na Wahine o ke Kai, and the late Mel Paoa, a veteran Hokule‘a crew member who captained several voyages. This year Kulaia will pay tribute to kumu hula Eliza Kauila Poaha Reyes.
“ALII were honored at kulaia in the past, and we wanted to carry on this tradition by honoring our respected leaders of today,” Rawlins-Crivello said. “We recognize them for their service to the community; for upholding values such as haahaa (humility), ohana (family), lokomaikai (generosity), malama (stewardship) and kuleana (responsibility); for their knowledge and perpetuation of cultural traditions; and for being inspirational role models for our youth.”
Kulaia’s logo, designed by Molokai artist Kuu Kahoohanohano, conveys the passing of traditions from one generation to the next in a simple but powerful image: an adult handing a canoe paddle to a child.
IF YOU GO …
Molokai Canoe Festivals-Kulaia Hoolaulea
>> Place: Kaunakakai, Molokai Da
>> Date: Sept. 25
>> Time: 5 to 10 p.m.
>> Admission: Free. Food and merchandise will be available for purchase.
>> Phone: 658-0104
>> Email: molokaikulaia@gmail.com
>> Website: kulaia.wix.com/kulaiamolokai
Notes: Amy Hanaiali’i and the Makaha Sons will headline the entertainment. Attendees can sign up for free lomilomi massages at the hoolaulea on Sept. 25 and a free lomilomi workshop at Home Pumehana/Hale Mahaolu Hall in Kaunakakai from 4 to 7 p.m. Sept. 26. Also, free shuttle service to and from Kaunakakai will be available for Na Wahine o ke Kai paddlers staying in the Kaluakoi area. Advance reservations for the shuttle and lomilomi offerings are required by Sept. 23; go to the Lomilomi and Travel/Logistics tabs on the website to register.
About Na Wahine o ke Kai race
In 1954, two years after the launch of the Molokai Hoe, the Waikiki Surf Club’s senior women’s crew proposed holding a similar race for women. Coaches and officials from the Hawaii Canoe Racing Association, however, didn’t think women could handle the treacherous waters of the 42-mile Kaiwi Channel and refused to sanction the idea.
It took more than 20 years for female paddlers to prove their mettle on what is regarded as Hawaii’s most challenging canoe paddling course. In October 1975 two crews of 18 paddlers completed the first crossing of the channel: Healani Canoe Club from Honolulu and Onipaa, comprising members from Kailua, Outrigger, Lanikai and Waikiki Surf clubs. Healani finished first with a time of 7 hours, 19 minutes and 20 seconds; Onipaa was a few minutes behind them.
At a February 1979 meeting, steps were taken to make the event "official." It was christened Na Wahine o ke Kai, meaning "Women of the Sea," and its support group, the Na Wahine o ke Kai Association, was founded. Organized and conducted by race director Hannie Anderson and the association, the first official competition was held Oct. 15, 1979.
Thirty-six years later "Auntie" Hannie continues to hold her key role for the race, which now bears the name of its major sponsor: Hawaiian Airlines Na Wahine o ke Kai. Team Bradley — whose paddlers hail from Oahu, Maui, Kauai and Hawaii island — has held the record since 2008: 5 hours, 22 minutes, 5 seconds.
This year’s race will be Sept. 27. For more information, go to nawahineokekai.com.
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Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.
