The next time you find yourself in the area, do yourself a favor and get lost in the cane fields of Kunia.
After taking the Kunia exit and passing the strip malls, you’ll be transported to what feels like another time — and definitely another island. The first time I took the drive, I found it hard to believe that I was still on Oahu. The greenery is lush, the air crisp and clean, and you find yourself taking the time to breathe deep and take it all in.
After about a 1-mile drive, take a left to Manulele Distillers. It is there where a truly local spirit is cultivated, and thus begins our story of Ko Hana Rum.
Robert Dawson and Jason Brand wanted to resurrect a native Hawaiian species of sugar cane and create an agricole style of rum that would let the cane shine.
Most rums are made from molasses, a byproduct of sugar cane. Agricole is typically made in the French- speaking Caribbean islands from fresh-pressed cane juice. The resulting liquor is completely different in style from molasses- based rums. You can actually taste the vegetal qualities of the cane, comparable to cachaca, a distilled cane spirit, or even tequila, depending on your palate.
Investors in the Ko Hana project researched the history of the cane, its origin and purpose for Native Hawaiians — be it medicinal, religious or even for drought prevention.
After many years of research and development, Manulele Distillers has collected 91 species of cane, 36 of which are genetically unique. Ten varietals are used to make rum, the majority of it using the kea, or white, cane species.
Manulele Distillers92-1770 Kunia Road
Distillery tours and tastings are $25; book through kohanarum.com or call 649-0830.
In a visit to the distillery, you can walk through the fields and see the various species of cane. The farmers here choose not to burn their cane, but instead cut it by hand and let it grow back. Their aim is to provide the best possible conditions for the cane to thrive. That way, when it comes time for harvest and pressing, the result is a symphony in the glass.
The distilling process begins with fresh-pressed cane pumped right into the fermenter. Wild yeast from a native cacao plant is added and allowed to do its thing. The magic is in the heart of the distillation, overseen by master distiller Noah Brown.
Each species of cane produces a unique and distinctive flavor, some being bright, floral and delicate, others with an almost savory character, with notes of mushroom and earth.
Then comes the work of the oak. Ko Hana is trying out all sorts of barrels — from once-used Laphroaig single-malt Scotch whisky casks to those that previously held sherry and even chardonnay wine.
If you were to blind-taste these wood-treated rums, you’d be left guessing what they could possibly be. The complexity and layers of flavor attributed to the cane, length of time in the barrel and type of barrel all contribute to the creativity that this project brings to the table.
Ko Hana rums are available at the distillery and at Fujioka’s Wine Times in Market City. Kyle Reutner, Ko Hana’s brand manager, shares some of his favorite recipes for you to try at home.
KO HANA DAIQUIRI
With some recipes, simplicity reigns supreme. The daiquiri is one such drink. I’m talking about the real-deal, three-ingredient daiquiri that requires no blender and doesn’t have an umbrella in it.
With this classic version of the cocktail, the rum is still the showcase, but balanced by the tart fresh lime and sugar, these go down way too easy on a hot day.
- 3/4 ounce lime juice
- 3/4 ounce rich simple syrup (2 parts sugar dissolved in 1 part water)
- 2 ounces Ko Hana Kea rum
Combine lime, simple syrup and rum in mixing glass with ice. Shake and strain into a coupe or martini glass.
Garnish: Lime twist
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PICK ME UP
Kokoleka is Manulele Distillery’s exquisite liqueur, sweetened with local cacao nibs and honey. One taste is enough to turn anyone on to this deep, rich and complex liqueur. You can certainly enjoy this on its own, or try it in a Pick Me Up to bring your morning cup of joe to a whole new level.
- 1-1/2 ounces Kokoleka cacao and honey liqueur
- About 4 ounces coffee
- Whipped cream, for topping
Pour liqueur into 6-ounce mug. Fill with coffee, top with whipped cream.
Garnish: Freshly grated nutmeg or cinnamon (optional)
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BOLD FASHIONED
This rendition of an Old Fashioned is made with orange bitters and Ko Hana’s Koho, a rum aged for a year in former bourbon barrels. The rum ages beautifully, picking up barrel characteristics in all the right ways.
Availability is limited, though, as they can bottle it only as fast as they can age it. This is the kind of cocktail that would make Don Draper very happy while on vacation in Hawaii.
- Orange and lime peel
- 1 dash Angostura orange bitters
- 1/4 ounce or 1 bar spoon rich simple syrup (2 parts sugar dissolved in 1 part water)
- 2 ounces Ko Hana Koho rum
Muddle (crush) peels with bitters and simple syrup. Add rum and ice, stir and strain into glass over a large ice cube.
Garnish: Wide orange peel and thin lime twist
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BRIGHT AND SUNNY
The growing popularity of the Moscow Mule and Dark and Stormy cocktails makes this next drink a shoo-in. Although the Ko Hana is far from neutral like a vodka, the flavors give this variation depth while keeping it refreshing and crowd-pleasing. I like to use a spicy ginger beer that isn’t super sweet. Some of my favorite brands are Fever Tree and Q, both usually available at Safeway.
- 1-1/2 ounces Ko Hana Kea
- 1 dash Angostura bitters
- Ginger beer
Combine rum and bitters in highball glass. Fill with ice and top with ginger beer.
Garnish: Lime wheel
Chandra Lucariello is director of mixology for Southern Wine & Spirits. Ingredient note: The liquors and liqueurs used in these recipes are widely available from Oahu liquor stores and some supermarkets.